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Thread: Halda Twinmaster & Porsche

  1. #31
    Senior Member mimimemegna's Avatar
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    This is my Halda with chronometers for regolarity runs
    Attachment 52548

    There are no holes on the dashboard and on the car.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Maurizio G.

    Early S Registry member #1253

    1968 MY 1969 Light Ivory 911E

  2. #32
    Senior Member CamBiscuit's Avatar
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    Nice set up Maurizio!

    Thanks Richard

    Does anyone have any 135, 137 & 137 gears they would sell or swap with me?

    Cheers

    Cam
    Looking for engine # 6208151
    '74 RS 3.0 Replica
    '70 911E Bahia Red (SOLD)
    '71 911 S/T Replica 2.3 Twin plug BEAST (SOLD)
    Australian TYP 901 Register #78
    Early S Registry # 1076

  3. #33

    Cam- I have all the gears.....

    .......we can sort it out when you're in Adelaide.

    133, 134, 135, 136, 137, 138, 139 etc etc

    Cheers mate

    Stewart.

  4. #34
    Senior Member CamBiscuit's Avatar
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    Thanks Stewart!!
    Looking for engine # 6208151
    '74 RS 3.0 Replica
    '70 911E Bahia Red (SOLD)
    '71 911 S/T Replica 2.3 Twin plug BEAST (SOLD)
    Australian TYP 901 Register #78
    Early S Registry # 1076

  5. #35
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by 304678 View Post
    Nice score!

    Not an expert but the buttons on the bottom are from an alloy case Twin/trip. The first alloys were introduced in '64, plastic bodied Twins are from the 70's. I prefer the alloys since they are smoother to operate but since you got it for free I would not complain

    Regarding T gear you should have a V14

    X & Z Gears, depends on your transmissionratio (as well). I would start w/ 58 on the Z and than figure out which X you need. 127 can be close.

    The 81 is 8:1 reduction

    Richard
    Hello all -
    I am attempting to close up a couple of things John couldn't complete before selling his '67 rally to me. One item is completing installation of the early Twinmaster (#3122) he had mounted, and it seemed appropriate to continue this subject thread.
    The T-gear accompanying the unit is a V13N 8-1. What is the difference between the v-14 cited by Richard and a v-13, or other iterations? Is it simply connectors since reduction ratios are the same?
    Any solid sources of x and z gears? I believe that sadly Martin (King Cog) has passed away. Has anyone assumed his business interests?
    Thanks to all -
    Hank
    Early S Registry # 1687

  6. #36
    Hi Hank

    The difference between a V13 and V14 is the thread. V13 has a thread for (I believe) Italian cars, the V14 is for Porsche and Mercedes. Other than that the reduction is the same.

    You can probably find an original V14 on ebay, the modern V14's are a new design. Those are available from sources as Bellmog in Belgium.

    Richard

  7. #37
    Senior Member
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    Thanks Richard!
    Being an early unit, it is labeled '6V'. I assume the only electrical requirement is for lighting? and the only upgrade needed is to change out bulb and socket to accommodate 12V? Wire connection to headlight switch? Have I forgotten too much from physics I?
    Cheers-
    Hank
    Early S Registry # 1687

  8. #38
    Just the bulb (and if you want to do it in detail change the label from 6V into 12V).
    Wiring to the headlight switch is OK unless you wanted it lighted too when the headlights are not on.

    Richard

  9. #39
    There are still several vendors that are able to sell you the correct t-pieces and gears:
    www.halda.de
    http://www.donbarrow.co.uk/halda_haldas_tripmeters.html
    http://www.casuutrecht.nl/rallyinstrumenten.htm
    Peter Stey
    1973 T Coupe with 2.7MFI
    1970 S Targa (sold but not forgotten)

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