'65/'66 ignition switch refit hell - experts needed

[kenikh]

Kenik, the white w black wire from the column switch should go to term 56 of the light switch. Try that.

Ed, my hero - lights work great. That wire must have gotten unplugged when I hamfisted my way underneath. The blinkers are another issue. Right blinker works great - relay clicks and all. Left blinker, no relay click and totally dim. Will have to troubleshoot that tomorrow.

Thanks! A beer for you at Treffen.

[edmayo]

Kenikh I'm afraid I won't be at Treffen to collect on that, but I will collect on it sometime!

[kenikh]

Kenikh I'm afraid I won't be at Treffen to collect on that, but I will collect on it sometime!

Bummer - hoped you'd make it again.

BTW, my blinker problem was a short bus moment - the reason it wasn't blinking was because I'd removed the turn signal housing! Hilarious.

Everything works like $1M.

[edmayo]

Kenikh, you're a diagnostic genius, nothing gets by you!!

[304065]

Picking up the baton here. . . .I spent some time with my harness this weekend, it's amazing what Orange Citrus Degreaser will do to clean this up. I learned my lesson the hard way doing parts of my '71 harness-- lacquer thinner will remove the stripes from the wires!

Ok, a few notes and references to DIN 72552, moving clockwise around the switch.

"50" to starter solenoid, yellow. That's the fat yellow one, there's only one terminal on the switch.

"75" or "54" to radio, this is the red/white at the top of the photo. Bob Tilton kindly explained that 75 is the same as 54. 54 carries a lot of connotations in the modern version of DIN 72552, but 75's definitely the radio and accessories. You can see that I have a red/white wire and also there WAS a yellow/white connected there, but some schlemozzle has severed that yellow/white wire. Maybe it is a yellow/red, that is the wire for the Webasto heater.

"15" back to hot side of fuse box. 15 is "battery + through ignition switch" or switched +12V in other words. The fat red goes back to the UNFUSED side of Fuse #1. When this terminal is energized, power goes to the engine electrical panel's "wye" connector, where it powers the fuel pump and the coil (through the ballast resistor circuit, about which I have written elsewhere). On the FUSED side of Fuse #1 are connected the power for the "control light relay," the brake light switch and brake lights, turn signals and the reverse lights. That is a lot of loads on that one circuit, I will do a load calculation later.

"30" to turn signal switch and headlight switch, red. 30 is battery direct, which means it's always hot. The fat red one is probably power FROM the light switch and the thin red one is power TO the turn signal switch. The light switch gets its power from the UNFUSED side of Fuse #2, which is a direct-connect back to the battery.

"57a" to turn signal switch for Euro park lamps, grey. This last circuit is interesting-- it carries power when the ignition is OFF to the turn signal switch to light up one side or the other depending on which position the lever is in. This is called "Pa" on the switch. There is a separate requirement in DIN, I don't have the number, that requires all cars to carry this functionality, even a brand-new 997.

[304065]

Here's the diagram for the Webasto, that supports the idea that the missing yellow wire is for the Heater.

[Bummler]

Great thread guys. So much fun to read what this board is all about......

[304065]

Here is the light switch showing the connections.

Original switch only had seven connections
30 power
57 pilot lamp
58B instrument illumination
K fogs, license, trunk
56 high/low
58R, 58L parking lights

Modern switch has eight connections- has an additional "75"

87 and later switch has an additional "58" on the switch

[kenikh]

It keeps getting better! Nice.

[304065]

Harry's Switch

Harry's question:

which terminal do i connect to if i want fogs to come on with low beams, and which terminal do i connect to if i want cibies to come on with high beams..

Look back at factory diagram on page L57 and follow with me

start at battery #9 in diagram at upper left
follow fat black from battery to fuse box UNFUSED side #3
see how #3 is in a bus with fuse #1 hot side
fat red comes off #1 hot side, goes to light switch. That's what you see in your photo, the fat red that comes in and then goes out to the igntion switch, then to the turn signal switch.
From the turn signal switch, the power goes one of two ways:

LOW BEAM
from the fat red, through the contacts in the switch, out through the yellow wire terminal 56b, to the UNFUSED side of fuses 9 and 10. From the FUSED side of 9 and 10 the yellow wire goes to the low beam filament on each side, through the filament to ground. Also, when power is flowing from the stalk switch to 9 and 10, a yellow wire goes from the UNFUSED side to terminal 56b of the "relay for light signal" #43.

HIGH BEAM
When the switch is pulled or pushed, current goes from the fat red, through the contacts in the switch, to terminal 30/56 of the "relay for light signal", across the relay to the normally CLOSED terminal 56a, out of the relay through a white wire to the UNFUSED side of fuse 11/12, which are in a bus together, and current flows through the white wire to the high beam filament and to ground.


It's pretty simple

Get a pair of Bosch ice-cube relays

Connect wire for fogs to terminal 87 of relay
Connect power through a fuse directly from battery to 30 of relay
Connect a brown ground wire to 85 of relay and the other end to the switched ground side of your fog light switch
Connect relay 86 to the fused side of fuse 9 or 10.

for cibies, same layout, but connect 86 to fused side of 11 or 12.

When you pull the fog light switch you ground the relay ground. If the low beams are on (power on fuse 9) then that energizes the relay coil and makes contact between 30 and 87. Current flows from the battery to 87 to the fog filament to ground.

That's the simplest way to do it.

Disconnect the battery before making any connections, double check everything BEFORE connecting the battery. You do not want to burn down the car or hurt yourself, which is very easy to do!

Good luck!