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Thread: Trick to installing headlights?

  1. #21
    Senior Member csbush's Avatar
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    It may be wrong, but starting years ago, I installed the original euro H1 lights without a gasket on my 70 911. I only had the thick rubber gaskets to work with, and there was no way the light was going on the fenders. (both fenders OEM replacements with little paint, etc). However, the lights pretty much snap onto the outer mounting brackets (starting with the top one), and the retaing screw in the bottom holds the assembly in very nicely. Lights don't move, rattle, or mar the paint in any way. And they have never fallen off on me.
    Chuck

    Early 911S registry #380
    '70S
    '75S
    '96 C4S
    '65 R69S

  2. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by edmayo View Post
    I agree, rally cars take such a beating that you're lucky the fender doesn't fall off! But as a general rule the fit and gap between the bucket and fender is crucial as Mark has said. I have actually had to carve out excess paint and bondo on freshly done cars with x-acto knives and 1/8th" die- grinders because the body shop didn't know any better, then the car comes to me when the headlight keeps falling out, instead of back to the body shop! The head light ring MUST fit over the tab at the top of the bucket first! Then the rest of the ring must be pushed by hand (no hammers allowed here) until the bottom slips over the bottom of the bucket,,,,,then the next crucial part is the ANGLE of the threaded tab the retention screw goes into. If angled correctly it will pull the headlight housing down slightly as the screw is tightened,,,,and I mean the proper 5mm thread machine screw,,,,,NOT the big sheet metal screws I see used because the body shop didn't weld in a new captive nut. All of this is dependent on the clearance of the rubber seal and the gap to the headlight ring.
    This thread is very helpful. Thank you. I think I got it all -- except what order the rubber buffer and plastic washers go on the retaining screw. The retaining screws of the H4s i have on my '73 have neither the the rubber buffer or the plastic washer, so ordered these to correct: https://www.aasesales.com/products/g2f-a96-6s-105074

    Does the rubber buffer go against chrome trim ring, and the plastic washer between rubber buffer and screw head? (The Model Life 1970-1973 parts catalogue does not seem show the rubber buffer or washer)

    Or perhaps this answers the question and I should instead order these screws? https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...M&KeepHeader=Y

    Thanks again.

  3. #23
    member #1515
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    the set from pelican is for cars with the paintable trim ring
    David

    '73 S Targa #0830 2.7 MFI rebuilt to RS specs

  4. #24
    Senior Member
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    The set on link from Aase was as used fie for h4 of model year 73 similar to as found in original car in those markets where the h4 were fitted at new.

  5. #25
    Excellent. Thank you both.

    So on the Aase ones, rubber buffer goes against chrome trim ring, and the plastic washer between rubber buffer and screw head?

  6. #26
    I've never used any rubber spacer, can't imagine what purpose it would serve other than holding the screw in the ring during shipment. A 356 used a plastic spacer but that was an entirely different mounting system.
    Early S Registry member #90
    R Gruppe member #138
    Fort Worth Tx.

  7. #27
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    The model 73 RS h4 had screw and light-coloured plastic — to Ed’s point not (seen) the a black part when removing or refitting original lamps to RS. I’m referring to original real preimpact bumper h4. I’m talking about cars with original date coded Bosch sticker and correct original part number not orphan lamps being fitted. Generally the real h4 are rare and many cars seem to get the incorrect g series h4. I’m told h4 were never legal USA ?
    Last edited by 911MRP; 02-06-2024 at 03:34 PM.

  8. #28
    Excellent -- won't worry about the rubber bit then. Just reassemble as it was.

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