I wouldn’t worry about part numbers, just actual hub measurements. I have them on my 914. I used 69-73 hubs and they bolted right up with 15” cookies and Fuchs.
I wouldn’t worry about part numbers, just actual hub measurements. I have them on my 914. I used 69-73 hubs and they bolted right up with 15” cookies and Fuchs.
A part isn't purchased until paid.
The 9 Store LLC.
I've had a measure up today. The American Racing wheel will clear the calliper with the original 40mm hub and a 15mm spacer or probably a 10mm spacer on a 47mm hub with corresponding studs to match.
A couple of quick questions:
Haul, are you using the 40mm or 47mm hubs with your 10mm spacers?
Mepstein, I don't really know anything about 914 strut / hub combos. Are they like 911 LWB struts?
Many thanks
David
If you give me the overall width of the American Racing wheel edge to edge, the offset in mm's or the backspacing to the inside edge, I can usually figure all this stuff out. A picture of the backside would help also. 15 and 16 inch by 6 Fuchs have a 36mm offset. As you can see on the chart, the 5.5 and 6 inch Fuchs have the same backspace. With my Alfa's and Boxster Brembo's I use a 5 mm spacer on the 40 mm hub. I run 16's for better tire choices.
The 5.5 Fuchs have a 42 mm offset. Porsche just added a 1/2 inch to the outside of the wheel to go to 6 by 36 mm offset.
On the next POLO car I'm building I had an extra 1/2 inch added to the inside to go back to the perfect 42 mm offset.
Think 5.5 Fuchs with a 1/2 inch added to both sides.
I posted these pictures, hopefully to help with your project.
Last edited by Chris Pomares; 01-01-2024 at 01:02 PM.
1959 Auratium Green 356A Super w/ Rudge wheels
1970 Irish Green 914-6 w/2.2S
Current -1967 Bahama Yellow 912 POLO 2cam4 #1
www.reSeeWorks.com
Personalized Vintage Porsche's and parts
I couldn't find the sports car of my dreams, so I built it myself-Ferdinand Porsche
I have the standard 65 set up - all stock, no change....
https://www.912bbs.org/forum/threads...s.52406/page-2
59 750 pre unit triton
63 650 gray silver bikinitub triumph thunderbird
70 650 astralred silver triumph bonneville
65 912 slate gray "erwin"
73 914 ravennagreen "ferdl"
erwin_loves_polo
I've been pondering this for awhile and have some questions. Car is a '66 build date, '67 sale date. Where do I take the hub measurement? Second is for Chris P. Are the Alfa's fine or just go Boxster from the start? 6x16 Fuchs on it. 2.2 MFI motor in it. Half tank of fuel and no passengers weight is 1960-1980. My neighbors CAT scale apparently runs in 20 lb increments and a breeze could explain it. Originally I was thinking just the fronts but the brake bias answered that for me. So, all 4. I may or may not auto cross it this season. I'll probably end up with a lift for this job.
Lastly, as I forgot. A local shop did some work on the car. Replaced the maser cylinder without permission (amongst other things). How can I tell which size? Paperwork doesn't say.
After going back to the start of the thread I realized I'd already posted most of this. But since I took the time I'll leave it up. First. What struts do you have as far as bolt pattern? 3.0 or 3.5. Second. After owning the Alfa's I'm not a fan. They flex. If staying 3.0 I prefer the ATE Euro BMW 323iS caliper from the same time period. It was used on the 1977 American BMW 320i for the first year if I remember correctly. Then they pulled the spacers and went solid rotor. I'm guessing to save on costs. For those who are staying solid front rotors the ATE, and make sure it's the ATE 320i front caliper of the late 70's and 80's is a nice upgrade. The Euro 323iS caliper uses the same pads as the Alfa. Basically a SC ATE pad with snipped corners to clear the 3.0 bolt spacing. The 323iS is much stronger. If you have 3.5 struts and 16's already I prefer the non S Boxster calipers. Big upgrade. I also run, one of, as far as I know, 42 mm piston rear calipers currently. It keeps the 1.6 brake bias. So I went from a 19 mm master to a 20.64 master as I had a little free play in my pedal. It's perfect now. If you stay with the 35 mm piston rear calipers you probably can stay with the 19 master. Your bias will be a little more toward the front, but that's probably livable. If you want to stay with the SWB front suspension and use a 3.5 strut, Rebel and Elephant have a solution. This will sound like sacrilege. If I had a LWB car I'd remove the front suspension and go SWB like the pictures. It makes for very easy camber adjustment. I used the Rebel bushings, no grease and no flex. I've since gone to Elephants GT3 type front suspension. Probably overkill for most folks. It looks awesome and works great. More sacrilege. I have very little rubber in the suspension. Basically the bushings in the trailing arms to the body. It's very smooth riding and very little alignment movement. I let bushings bush, and springs spring whether its T bars or coil overs. I have never understood why people want a bunch of rubber throughout their front and rear suspension. Yes I know that's how Porsche did it. That was the economic way at the time and car companies hoped the car would rust out in 3 or 4 years and we all would buy another. My car is NOT stiff, it's smooth. The car has made 3 round trips from Colorado to California and back in the last 12 months and I'll be 72 next month. I don't like getting beat up.
A 69 POLO car I'm building will go Non S Boxster at all 4 corners. It will get a 22.2 master. My guess is the 23 mm ATE master will be too stiff. If anyone needs one I have a new 23 ATE on the shelf.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/174196088700
https://www.rsrproducts.com/product-...89-911-912-930
https://www.elephantracing.com/porsc...ystem-for-911/
Last edited by Chris Pomares; 02-12-2024 at 09:09 AM.
1959 Auratium Green 356A Super w/ Rudge wheels
1970 Irish Green 914-6 w/2.2S
Current -1967 Bahama Yellow 912 POLO 2cam4 #1
www.reSeeWorks.com
Personalized Vintage Porsche's and parts
I couldn't find the sports car of my dreams, so I built it myself-Ferdinand Porsche
Thank you, that is the answer I was looking for. After poking around under it the whole front suspension is going to get redone too. Time to start ordering parts.
This has started me down a rabbit hole. I still have no clue where to measure the hub diameter from without pulling it all apart. Caliper bolt spacing is +/- 3", hard to be exact. I've found (thank you Chris) parts for the front rebuild. Then I looked at the GT-3 front. Deep in the weeds but hey, my birthday is coming up. Obligatory photos will be posted at some point.
This is what I found out. 3.0 spacing Boxster's are not available. Chuck at Elephant found a pair of 3.5 struts in the shop for me that will work. That means Boxsters for me with a bunch of bushings and such. The GT-3 is nice but coil over only and I want to keep my externally adjustable Koni's. Those are custom fit and I can pull part #'s at tear down if anyone wants. Here's the kicker - Elephant is working on 930 calipers for 3.0 spacing. More money, obviously, but overkill for a <2,000 lb car.