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Thread: ORIGINAL and RARE 911 PARTS are WORTH MORE THEN "RE-BADGED" PARTS... CORRECT?

  1. #61
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Scottsdale, AZ
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    9,752
    Quote Originally Posted by RSTarga View Post
    There is a firm here that does component testing. They have a special chamber that "ages" anything. They can mimic the effects of years of exposure to the elements. UV rays wind, salt, rain, heat , cold etc.
    Anyone have a completely restored car they want "aged"?
    Then there is Alcor which is down the street from us. They are in the "age prevention" biz.
    They have baseball great Ted Williams head on ice cuz they're going to build a body for him down the road.

    No Lie.

  2. #62
    RSTarga,

    Yes I would rebuild the Original engine if it were in the car using the Original Case,Heads,Pump etc...

    Check out posts on this 911 site and you will find lots of guys who want even there cloned cars to look as Original as possible down to the smallest detail. There are also guys who reproduce every tiny little thing down to the minutest details like the Font on the stickers on the car and engine... Sitting on my desk are the silver Chassis Number Stickers that go in the Door Jamb...

    Some lunatic spent the time, energy and money to research then reproduce each sticker with the changes for each specific year... WHY? Obviously no one is foolish enough to get on their hands and knees and study the sticker in the door jamb... Or are there a few 911 guys that are that foolish?

    Orange Bars on the hood Badge obviously makes your 911 much faster and handle better then having an emblem with Red Bars... That has to be the explanation why some guys will pay $400 for an Orange Bar emblem when a Red Bar emblem is only $28 from Porsche.

    Will your 911S run any differently if it has the original a black coil? NO! But some guys will pay stupid money just to have a black coil! Do H1s with the raised lettering shine brighter? NO! Again but some want the correct PERIOD lens...

    But there are absolutely without a doubt two totally different groups with opposing opinions about Restoring and Collecting Classic Cars. Some guys are heavily into the RESTO-MOD for their Vintage cars. These guys only care about the Vintage look but want Modern Performance and will run a 3.6 liter in a 1973 chassis while other people want everything as Original as possible...

    For the record I have BOTH!

    My 911E , my Dino and some of my Vintage Motorcycles (BSA,Bultaco etc) are all 100% unrestored Original. But my 1957 Speedster and my 1962 Twin Grille Roadster I had both restored 30 years ago and then upgraded with Super 90 engines, Rudge Knock-Off Wheels and lots of other Factory Options. That's what we ALL did back then...

    If I have the choice I do prefer Original unrestored.
    Last edited by execmalibu; 08-23-2013 at 01:40 PM.

  3. #63

    Barn find original or professionally restored? That is the question!

    There have been a lot of articles like this one recently that discuss the same thing! Frank It is Crazy! Even in Arizona...

    BARN FIND ORIGINAL VERSUS PROFESSIONALLY RESTORED CLASSIC CAR
    The Controversy – November 2012

    The collector car world has become enamored with the classic car barn find over the last few years and now to the point where an unrestored barn find can sell for more money than a correctly restored car.

    Here are examples from the recent Arizona auctions.

    Both cars are 1965 Shelby GT 350 Mustangs.

    There is no specification difference between these two cars. They are even the same exterior and interior color as are all 1965 GT 350s.

    #1- Restored High Quality Driver 1965 Shelby GT 350
    This car was sold at RM Auctions for $198,000. This is a matching numbers car and the RM catalog gives the impression that this car is a strong driver that also looks great.

    #2- Unrestored Barn Find 1965 Shelby GT 350
    The second car was unrestored and in storage for about 30 years. The paint on the blue stipes was wearing off, as you can see in the first photo below, and there was rust under the hood as you can see in the second photo below.

    It was sold at Barrett Jackson for $385,000!

    This is almost two times the price of the restored car above.
    Last edited by execmalibu; 08-23-2013 at 03:27 PM.

  4. #64
    member #1515
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    San Antonio, Texas
    Posts
    4,263
    Whatever rocks your boat I guess.
    David

    '73 S Targa #0830 2.7 MFI rebuilt to RS specs

  5. #65
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    US
    Posts
    112
    In the world of engineering you start with requirements and then design a product that meet those requirements. If it becomes commercially successful is another question.

    SO some peoples requirement is originality and another's is performance. Two different customers. Two different products.

    Simple as that - the market.

  6. #66
    So the 911E MFI Pump #014 that was the focus of this entire thread has been sold and now lives in Seattle...

    The new owner has a 1972 911E Targa that his dad bought in 1976 and the car has been sitting since 2003. Apparently his MFI pump the rack is stuck... Back then the car would start but not rev past 2,000 RPM. We will find out this week if the now infamous MFI pump was good or not...

    Stay tuned!
    Last edited by execmalibu; 08-25-2013 at 08:48 AM.

  7. #67

    The 014 MFI PUMP WORKS GREAT!!! THE BUYER CALLED AND SAID HIS CARS NOW RUNS!

    NEWS FLASH!

    I just got a call from the guy in Seattle who bought the used 014 MFI pump and he said that they installed the pump and his 911E started and ran for the first time in over 10 years... He said during the first 5-10 minutes it smoked like crazy... But after a while the smoking nearly 90% stopped and he was able to drive the car around his neighborhood.

    He says the car pulls strongly...


    So I guess the Ney sayers were wrong...

    In the end there are two TWO different options:

    1. Buy a GOOD used Original 911E #014 MFI pump for $3,000 and have your car back up and running within a few days...

    OR

    2. Find then buy a CORE 911T MFI pump for $750-$1000 then send it out to be rebuilt at $1,800- $2,000 and then wait the 3-6 months to get back your rebuilt "RE-STAMPED" Non-Original Pump.

    For myself I prefer the first option...


    BTW- I am getting his core 014 pump back as part of the deal.
    Last edited by execmalibu; 08-30-2013 at 01:18 PM.

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