Accelerator Linkage question

[Speedster911]

MY 72; Working on my accelerator linkage as my gas pedal doesn't have the full range of movement and MFI isn't functioning as designed. As others have suggested on this forum related to fuel linkage , I am starting at the pedal and working my way back. I have ordered a new pedal and tunnel bushings as a step one approach.

My question is on the bushings in the tunnel. Mine are missing or deteriorated (#13) so I have nothing to reference - there is a small shoulder on each bushing. Does the shoulder face the front or the back of the car when I slide it into the holder? Do I grease them or the rod?

[Speedster911]

My step 2: figuring out why the gas pedal doesn't come up all the way to the stop position. Any suggestions on what the cause may be. Thank you all as always for your priceless guidance.

[Scott A]

Photos would help.

Sometimes the gas pedal lever will bend, which often causes the pedal parts to run into the tunnel metal.
It is often best to take the whole pedal cluster out and inspect and renew things, that way you can depend on it for a long time.

The new LED headlamps help tremendously in the work.

[Claudecot3]

Hi,

take a look at #25 in your diagram, that little lever can bend and is the intermediate piece between your pedal and the rod.
Might wanna make sure you get movement properly on its pivot axis (bushings #24 in diagram).

As for the bushings #13 they have a shoulder on each end and are symmetrical, no front or back. You have 2 that goes in bending tabs (1 by the shifter, 1 by the handbrake hole access)
I am currently re-assembling a 1970, it has some kind of a J bracket through the rear access cover which also hold a third sliding bushing.
I did put a little dab of multipurpose grease so it moves smoothly, without it, the rod was "sticking" very lightly, with it the rear rubber boot is strong enough to pull/push back the rod in place.

Make sure your lever #14 pivots well on the side of transmission.
Take a close look at all the rods on your intake manifolds stacks, when I re-assembled the engine even with brand new butterfly assembly I would have a link that would catch on one of the butterfly pivots and was preventing a complete range movement.

Last thing look at your hand throttle lever, make sure it isn't catching or staying pulled... adjustment for it, make sure nothing is broken there.

Hope it helps

[Speedster911]

While awaiting for parts to arrive, I did a little more exploring. I discovered when pulling the gas pedal all the way up to what should e its resting position, the rod in the tunnel bows. No bushings in place as they are all toast. haven't removed ebrake yet but clearly binding on something. The lever at the trans is in the correct 90 degree position.

Sorry for the lousy photos, small garage and poor lighting.

[edmayo]

It's hitting the hand throttle. To test just the tunnel rod you need to disconnect it at the trans bell crank and then lift up e-brake assembly to disconnect the hand throttle lever.

[frederik]

No need to remove the handbrake, just peel the rubber and carpet away and a little inspection hole allows you to adjust the hand throttle with a small screwdriver. Fiddly but it works.

[edmayo]

True, but he will have to remove the handbrake assembly anyway to do the tunnel bushings which he says he intends to do.

[Speedster911]

It's hitting the hand throttle. To test just the tunnel rod you need to disconnect it at the trans bell crank and then lift up e-brake assembly to disconnect the hand throttle lever.

^^Thank you^^.... I assume I need to remove at least one seat to have good working access?

[edmayo]

Yes, I always remove the passenger seat, then you're not having the steering wheel in the way.