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Thread: Engine Broke 2.7 Post.

  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Jon B View Post
    To separate the crankcase, it cannot be mounted to an engine stand on both sides.
    Be very careful when removing the large sensor above the right chain housing, so that you don't crack or break off the attachment area on the case.

    Jon B.
    Vista, CA

    do you mean the sensor with housing? Is it the oil pressure sensor or something similar?... that is unscrewed and once loose I screw it back on. I am going to open the motor where it is, it is more comfortable for me (although it looks more shabby)... right now I wonder. Is it necessary to remove the studs that "hold" the cylinders etc? to open the case? I have unscrewed everything and I can not loosen the casing to open. Thank you very much for the advice.
    **So far all the screws have come out easily....

    +

    ummm... the crankshaft is broken.
    283511739_523256986135704_1780391248102911433_n.jpg
    what could cause this?
    Last edited by _gonbau; 05-24-2022 at 12:17 PM.

  2. #22
    Have you got Wayne’s book yet? It is very comprehensive about disassembly and assembly and will more than pay for itself just if it keeps you from breaking something. If the case is useable or repairable then don’t be afraid to rebuild it yourself. For the most part it’s not very difficult. The cam timing is a little tricky and requires some special tools. When I rebuilt my top end I stripped it down to the case but did not split it. When I got to the cam timing I paid a high quality mechanic to do that. Saved myself thousands and had the satisfaction of doing it myself.
    1969 911S
    1969 Datsun 2000...worth less, but more valuable

  3. #23
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Orange County, CA & Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    414
    Yikes! Yep, the crank is broken. Sorry to see that.
    Bill

    Early 911S Registry Member #4087
    Instagram: @myflat6

    '72T hotrod 210 0228
    '82SC Targa
    '97C4S (sold - and regretting it)

  4. #24
    that would be the idea. I have removed the complete heads since my work was diagnosis... once I manage to open it and see the state, we value it and it will be sent to a workshop to carry out the assembly and synchronized work... I think it is the most fun way to do this for the most "lazy" boys... not for real men! from my point of view wl assembly is something delicate in which surely... you prefer to invest money for a good mechanic... at this point and before finding the fracture! notice that this connecting rod was not properly greased... my question is... was that lack of lubrication the cause of the breakage or effect/consequence? I appreciate any message etc...regarding the book! I don't have it yet and I know it's the bible... but here I haven't been able to get it. I've soaked up the canary videos (videos of incredible content). by the way... bizarre but take the heads off with the exhaust manifolds on. It seems to me an easier way to work on them!!

  5. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by myflat6 View Post
    Yikes! Yep, the crank is broken. Sorry to see that.
    well... my father has spent 30 years considering what the mechanic had told him back in the day... today it was confirmed that they are not painful since we are looking for another rebuilt engine, this was secondary... due to the damage I have seen for now it is rebuildable !! so when I finish opening I will be able to assess correctly... the strange thing is that I have not found metal. was it a clean break?

  6. #26
    I have raised the motor to the support, I will clean it, I will lower it, I will disassemble the second cylinder head... then I will try to open it. All the screws are out but the casing does not take off

  7. #27
    If the casing was fine... What part would need machining? All? Even if the piston or liner is fine, should it be machined? What would be the approximate cost? I will upload photos of the current state if someone thinks they are interesting!! Salds
    284371504_1417460072103547_3817472913234548144_n.jpg283813409_510178307441435_9212038964380559887_n.jpg283917641_5080189608738325_6993165456788189892_n.jpg283886100_5080189502071669_6756254748944489257_n.jpg283912839_5080189158738370_6653909147615482995_n.jpg284059517_5080188422071777_7653635552412370823_n.jpg283810428_555005802870588_4281374982921037164_n.jpg

    in the photo of the connecting rod... You can see how it lacks lubrication! When the crankshaft starts, oil stops entering?
    Last edited by _gonbau; 05-27-2022 at 01:43 AM.

  8. #28

  9. #29

  10. #30
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Burford, ON, Canada
    Posts
    4,237
    Very interesting!. That is an unusual break. It appears the mechanic knew what he was saying about the broken crank. When you can, get good detailed photos of the break so that we can see if the cause of the break can be determined.
    If you are going to mount it on an engine stand, you need a special yoke (P201) that attaches to just one side of the case. It is used with heavy duty stand (P313) and flywheel lock (P215).
    Porsche Historian, contact for Kardex & CoA-type Reports
    Addicted since 1975, ESR mbr# 2200 to 2024 03
    Researching Paint codes and Engine Build numbers

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