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Thread: Engine Broke 2.7 Post.

  1. #91
    member #1515
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    San Antonio, Texas
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    4,239
    You really need to get the heads bead blasted to clean them properly before machining. Properly done heads are critical to achieving the best performance from your engine. Send them off to a decent machinist, freight may be expensive but spending money on parts that are not properly installed will give you headaches in the future.
    You want to be frugal, but it will cost you more in the end.
    David

    '73 S Targa #0830 2.7 MFI rebuilt to RS specs

  2. #92
    is ultrasonic cleaning better than shot blasting?
    From my point of view, I would rather not throw sand at it.

    +

    this crankshaft.
    https://www.ebay.es/itm/154783068500

    its okay?
    In the places that I have been informed about, they will do the test for microcracks and the rectification work of 25 is around €500.
    I have ordered the guides and gaskets,nuts,etc for the heads...When I have the heads I will buy the pistons and cilynders but I would like to buy the crankshaft as soon as possible...
    +
    ec3b24e78ffb0a06dc9208e274e26c86.jpg
    What happens here for this carcass to "itch" that way? It is not mine, but since it is a 1974 and they will be more or less the same age, I am worried about the state of that one, will mine stay that way over the years or does the image show that it was treated poorly at some point? Ours when we open it... "It's perfect" so I don't understand how there can be so much difference in an "internal" part... that doesn't suffer external friction etc...
    https://www.soloporsche.com/xf/index...a.90631/page-7
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    291919186_367742142154799_6694723139637289641_n.jpg291938416_595221968790942_3211071887943958967_n.jpg292287234_1053879068597920_5617697440534947368_n.jpg292366075_428861389150812_7352824340420470477_n.jpg292411077_603436374412872_3030123512307792129_n.jpg293012140_1412072345961815_8883828376566843845_n.jpg

    I think I have not found any improvement in this engine. It remains to find out the 5 or 11 blade fan if it was original to the engine or not. Why could this motor be misconfigured? My father says that the last time the vehicle was in the mechanic he was with the "lamp"... adjusting the ignition I understand. It worked fine for a few days or weeks (I don't know) and then it broke down on a highway. Observing the mark of the piston and the valve (I haven't seen a bent valve yet but the rectifier will notice that). Observing those details... Did the engine break due to a bad ignition adjustment? There is no improvement that causes confusion, therefore I believe that the hand of a mechanic with little experience (even on a standard engine) was the cause. If anyone appreciates a piece that should be reviewed to see if there is any improvement, I appreciate your comment. I would also like to ask if the gaskets for the Rocker arms of the rsr are included in the rossepassion gasket pack? My intention is to leave this engine identical to how it is. So I don't know whether to put those together. I'm also not going to do the chain tensioner upgrade.

    +

    I would also like to ask. in the arm of the chain tensioner in an internal angle I thought I saw a "microfissure". I came up with the brilliant idea of ​​subtly scratching with a screwdriver and what before looked like a crack in the part now looks like nothing. My question is, do the chain tensioners have a coating or similar? My impression was that there was a little chipping in that area. But given the area that it is, the arm... I don't think I'd take any risk. Has anyone seen a cracked chain tensioner arm?

    +

    Very noob question but I have to ask it. What are thermal reactors? Or the thermal parts that I have to look at?

    Secondly. I've ordered a suicide mission. As soon as the pieces of the guides etc arrive, which I suppose will be this coming week, the pieces will be sent to ultrasound and the seats will be made (THE HEADS AND THE UPPER COVER OF THE HEAD)
    I have also bought a crankshaft, this will have to be rectified to 0.25.
    in a week I will have updated images
    +
    for now in parts... 1300 crankshaft, €700 spare parts to make the heads good and set of engine gaskets. The pistons and cylinders are missing as expensive "parts" and the rest I think are expendable. With the exception of the chain tensioners, which I have to take a good look at... For now, I estimate that we will spend 1,300 for the crankshaft, 800€ for the head parts, and 800€ more for connecting rod bushings, bearings, etc. Plus the 3k of the cylinders and pistons... So we are close to €6000 in parts. At least I hope, when spending on this engine... we know what we are mounting etc... Of work we would have to continue adding more things... the work on the heads around €500 more... The rectification of the crankshaft another €500/700. Checking the connecting rods takes another good "bit" of money. So...6k of pieces plus €2000 more or less of machining work etc... that's already 8K. The mechanic is missing ...I think, we are still in figures to restore our engine. If it works of course. I haven't seen anything about the injection. Is your restoration expensive? My father says that it worked perfectly, I understand then, I just have to change the gaskets and consumables in the injection?
    Last edited by _gonbau; 07-10-2022 at 02:33 AM.

  3. #93
    questions. When selling an engine, how do you take being told that it has another crankshaft with touched measurements and 0.25MM bushings? We are evaluating whether to go for another crankshaft and I would like to ask... the STD letters that accompany the definition of the crankshaft means "STANDARD"? how many of you and why? they would put a standard crankshaft instead of one at - 0.25MM. If you put a Standard one... standard bushings etc right? the STD crankshaft is around 3000. The one that has to be rectified around 1500 + 500 of polishing work + the bushings with the correct dimensions... we almost put ourselves at 3000. So I feel obliged to ask this. On the other hand, I have found damage to the intermediate shaft and also opened the oil filter. You can see metal particles on the outer side of the sheets, not on the inner side....however, everything will have to be cleaned extremely well and I wonder...how to clean the radiator and the oil tank...
    293131685_615118249774333_3677440268331694137_n.jpg292752749_457745235753525_801526202713808558_n.jpg292565952_586470476206975_3917619065865844274_n.jpg293215500_911346390260911_7645360060807230908_n.jpg293478211_1249967539106953_2328969104984586022_n.jpg
    +

    On the other hand, I thought I detected a crack in the chain tensioner arm. Can someone confirm that this is where this piece breaks?
    292077746_358055169822004_3269796515389054516_n.jpg292677022_1308049486634366_3960152373085505788_n.jpg291601684_440451671064657_4287521882880703863_n.jpg293058341_572693877597903_2192378920348862548_n.jpg

  4. #94
    member #1515
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    David

    '73 S Targa #0830 2.7 MFI rebuilt to RS specs

  5. #95
    I have asked him! Thanks for the link.. I hadn't seen it and I like that it's from the community. On the other hand I would like to delve into the chain tensioner. I think about taking a file and scraping that area to see if it's a crack or just a layer of coating or metal. It is a good idea? I speak superficially but since we are talking about a piece that if I discard, I would have to spend another €500, I would like to be sure that it is "defective". Today I will look at it better and see but I would like to know if there is any image of a broken chain tensioner on the net or on the forum.

  6. #96

  7. #97
    That was a well-used motor. Corrosion on the case half connection surfaces. Micro-pitting on the gears. Cracks in the tensioners. And that cracked crankshaft earlier. If it were me, I would be starting with a lot of new parts.
    Peter Kane

    '72 911S Targa
    Message Board Co-Moderator - Early 911S Registry #100

  8. #98
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Wilmington, DE
    Posts
    1,393
    Buy my 3.0, take a weekend (or less) to install it and you could be driving the rest of the summer.
    Even though it's not cheap, you will need to spend a lot of time and money to get your engine running again.

    https://www.early911sregistry.org/fo...90#post1129890
    A part isn't purchased until paid.

    The 9 Store LLC.

  9. #99
    Senior Member HughH's Avatar
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    Dec 2004
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    Melbourne Australia
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    I agree
    so far the more you have looked into your engine the more issues that have arisen- it is certainly anything but what you thought it to be and there appears to be poor workmanship leading to the failure - however it could be worse than just poor workmanship - it could be a poorly conceived engine rebuild design /choice of spec so even if you replicated it it may have the same underlying issues
    if you are not careful you will be replacing a great majority of the parts - at a much higher cost in the end than biting the bullet and buying a running one that is almost "plug and play"
    Hugh Hodges
    73 911E
    Melbourne Australia

    Foundation Member #005
    Australian TYP901 Register Inc.

    Early S Registry #776

  10. #100
    Quote Originally Posted by 72targa View Post
    That was a well-used motor. Corrosion on the case half connection surfaces. Micro-pitting on the gears. Cracks in the tensioners. And that cracked crankshaft earlier. If it were me, I would be starting with a lot of new parts.
    or not...thank god that is not my case, I took it as an example from the post that I attached just below. I was wondering what would have brought that casing to that state? How do joints rust? Was that block open and that's why it rusted like this? In our case, the block is perfect as far as the joints are concerned. So far I haven't seen any damage to the block. I thought there was one but from what I've seen it's normal in all cases (there was a part that seemed broken but it's from the foundry itself). On the other hand... Regarding the engine, I am amazed that my father drove with it and not found the crankshaft scratched. I would like to ask about the oil cycle. I opened the filter and in the "cardboard" on the outside you can see metal particles between the fins. On the inside of the cardboard it looks clean. My question is... Do the metal particles always "pass" the filter? And in that case... why don't I see scratches on the crankshaft or other parts?
    Regarding the chain tensioner! If anyone has more info, I appreciate you publishing it, I have to take pictures again to be sure they are not shadows!

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