Engine Broke 2.7 Post.

Is there interest in opening a post for the restoration of the 2.7 L engine of my car? I know a little about mechanics! But I think that with advice and reading I can try ... But my question is whether it would be interesting to open a post about this or there is already enough about this type of issue in this forum ... I have doubts. Disassemble the flywheel and there I have an oil leak .. That could respond to the oil pressure but not to the axial play of the crankshaft .. These types of queries are what I would make in the post about the engine ... That guy of noob stuff ...

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Originally Posted by _gonbau

Is there interest in opening a post for the restoration of the 2.7 L engine of my car?

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Yes, of course.
Have you rebuilt other engines, of any type? Which manuals are you using for reference? Do you have the necessary tools and equipment?

Jon B.
Vista, CA

Hello, I want to ask the following. We are going to see the engine in these weeks. I have still touched it so I cannot know its condition. I have this video of when I tried to start it (don't yell or hit me for it)
https://youtu.be/C5cvbCW9vpM
With this video we have gone to the mechanic who is going to work the engine and according to what he sees in the video... He says that the crankshaft is broken. So I don't know if he's saying it because of his knowledge or because it's what people around here say all these years because of the things my father used to say that the car did when it broke down. I have some questions....
Is it possible that the crankshaft is broken and the engine turns easily? The mechanic says yes...
He recommends us, as they told me in this forum, to use a rebuilt engine and put our injection on it... I don't have numbers to calculate all this so I don't know how to value it.
Our engine is to be thrown in the "garbage"? Is there a possibility to fix it? Or... you can simply sense that it is broken inside? In that case... what could be saved from this 2.7 engine and what other rebuilt blocks have prices?
when splitting a crankshaft...is there a loss of oil pressure without spilling to the outside?
Salds
add....the little force when turning is due to the fact that I took a used battery from my grandmother's Vw from the garage....

Is there any way to see if the crankshaft is broken without completely disassembling the engine?
Shall I break the oil filter to see if there is metal debris in there?Attachment 574646
https://youtu.be/3lrU7BQRAeA

You might as well pull the engine, even if just to learn about it. If you are planning to rebuild, buy Wayne's book from Pelican Parts.
If you don't have repair facilities on the Canarias, ship it off to a rebuilder on the continent.
Aqui hay varios socios basados en Europa que te podrían reconstruir tu motor.

I'm sure I'll try it...Now we're trying to see which way to go...If we can switch to other engines, buy another 2.7 engine...or send the engine to a mechanic for evaluation...But the truth. ..I would not be interested in him disassembling the engine and telling me that it is broken and kept in pieces...For that, I prefer to buy another engine and take the one I have as "learning"...I don't know yet, I have many things to look at ...I'm going to see where I can buy the book. Greetings

https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog...BKPTEC_pg4.htm
Here you go

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Originally Posted by RSTarga

https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog...BKPTEC_pg4.htm
Here you go

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stupid to ask but... with the isbn (number of the book) could I go to a bookstore on my island and have them order it for me? If you don't use amazon 30€

I can't pay 3 times what the book costs for shipping...

• USPS Priority Express
  
  $86.75
• USPS Intl Priority
  
  $46.99

ask your bookstore

https://youtube.com/shorts/T38wSYT7aLk
https://youtube.com/shorts/hjGOfmRINIU

from the delco Removing it we observe the following.a

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Attachment 575111

with hand. I can displace the "crankshaft". I mean... if I pull the bream I can feel the movement you see in the video (from inside the engine)... This may perhaps give a fairer but "general" judgment of what is happening to the engine. Um... It's clear right? Is the crankshaft broken?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by _gonbau

stupid to ask but... with the isbn (number of the book) could I go to a bookstore on my island and have them order it for me? If you don't use amazon 30€

I can't pay 3 times what the book costs for shipping...

• USPS Priority Express
  
  $86.75
• USPS Intl Priority
  
  $46.99

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https://ebay.com/itm/194448345198?ep...kAAOSwDo1hbaKI

Whatever the cause, you are going to have to take the engine apart.
Bruces book is great, but Wayne's book gives clearer instructions for a rebuild. However, my recommendation is that you send it to someone who knows what they are doing and has access to competent machine shops.

I'm going to buy the book, and I'll get my hands on it to disassemble it. My intention is to disassemble cylinder heads and from there to be able to see the crankshaft. Once I'm at this point and without fully "opening" I'll decide if it's worth having the mechanic work on it. A reconstruction of this type of engine... how much money could it take? 10/15K? What work could I do (disassembly or whatever) that is "simple" in order to lower costs? These days I will buy the motor support... I will try to see the book in bookstores and if not I will buy it in amazon! This is decided ... If anyone wants to give me advice or think of things to try on the engine. I'm your boy! I can post videos of anything! And RS/62s thanks for the advice! The mechanic "doesn't have much enthusiasm" to open this engine... So the way I think is still to buy another rebuilt engine! But equally, we want to see the state of this and repair it over time if it is repairable.

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ummm I tried but they don't send to the Canary Islands from that link. A shame because it's extremely cheap...
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I have removed the plastic casing. So far all the screws have come out fine. When I take them off I put them back in place. The idea is to lighten weight and this week buy the motor mount. I have also removed the top and bottom covers. The screws came out fine too! The next step when you have engine support will be to remove the exhaust manifolds.

esta herramienta es correcta para el desmontaje ?
https://www.ebay.es/itm/325145691838...EaAgRvEALw_wcB

Attachment 575267
Attachment 575268

I have loosened the two nuts...these days I will upload it to the workbench or support...I don't know what to call it.
To remove the second nut... I had to disassemble the tensioner... Pass the wrench and reassemble the tensioner to block and loosen it. I thought it would be a much more complicated job. 20 minutes to my surprise

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where the wrench is located, when disassembling the "pinions" I found a large, deformed metal washer. I understand that it will not "have" to do with the "axial clearance" but .... if it is a symptom.
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the "rusting" nuts have come off easily on that same side.
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Attachment 575270Attachment 575271

Many shops charge $20-30k for a rebuild. Parts and labor.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by _gonbau

...when disassembling the "pinions" I found a large, deformed metal washer. I understand that it will not "have" to do with the "axial clearance" but .... if it is a symptom...

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The washer is deformed by design, to help prevent the nut from coming loose.
You will need special tools to re-install the cam nuts properly. You will also have to re-set the camshaft timing.

Jon B.
Vista, CA

I know, I mean... I know that I don't take care with the camshaft when disassembling since it is intended to disassemble the entire engine. It depends on the state, it will be sent to the mechanic to be assembled... In the same way I am still looking for 2.7L engines. The next thing I will do tomorrow will be to remove the rocker arm tower... My intention is to get to the piston. Once there, remove it and observe "superficially" the crankshaft. Your advice is valued! And thanks for the information on the washer...

I have removed one of the complete heads. The pistons are dirty, but they are fine. I keep observing the axial movement. I put the cylinder closest to the rear of the engine in the position furthest from the block...I make the movement and it is observed how there is movement in that cylinder....I repeat the same process with the piston next to it. I don't see movement. IS IT PARTY AT THAT POINT? Or can it be due to another cause? I will remove the pistons to be able to observe better....
Attachment 575319



I have removed two pistons. The ones closest to the exhaust part on the left side. I'll take out the third one and I'll put "elastic".
I don't see much interest in this post so I won't "load" the system with "many photos"...

I have also removed the studs from the front part to be able to raise it to the support... I intend to use the generic support now that the motor weighs little. The asparagus gives me little confidence... Are the motors really held with the official support on two asparagus?

To separate the crankcase, it cannot be mounted to an engine stand on both sides.
Be very careful when removing the large sensor above the right chain housing, so that you don't crack or break off the attachment area on the case.

Jon B.
Vista, CA

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jon B

To separate the crankcase, it cannot be mounted to an engine stand on both sides.
Be very careful when removing the large sensor above the right chain housing, so that you don't crack or break off the attachment area on the case.

Jon B.
Vista, CA

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do you mean the sensor with housing? Is it the oil pressure sensor or something similar?... that is unscrewed and once loose I screw it back on. I am going to open the motor where it is, it is more comfortable for me (although it looks more shabby)... right now I wonder. Is it necessary to remove the studs that "hold" the cylinders etc? to open the case? I have unscrewed everything and I can not loosen the casing to open. Thank you very much for the advice.
**So far all the screws have come out easily....

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ummm... the crankshaft is broken.
Attachment 575326
what could cause this?

Have you got Wayne’s book yet? It is very comprehensive about disassembly and assembly and will more than pay for itself just if it keeps you from breaking something. If the case is useable or repairable then don’t be afraid to rebuild it yourself. For the most part it’s not very difficult. The cam timing is a little tricky and requires some special tools. When I rebuilt my top end I stripped it down to the case but did not split it. When I got to the cam timing I paid a high quality mechanic to do that. Saved myself thousands and had the satisfaction of doing it myself.

Yikes! Yep, the crank is broken. Sorry to see that.

that would be the idea. I have removed the complete heads since my work was diagnosis... once I manage to open it and see the state, we value it and it will be sent to a workshop to carry out the assembly and synchronized work... I think it is the most fun way to do this for the most "lazy" boys... not for real men! from my point of view wl assembly is something delicate in which surely... you prefer to invest money for a good mechanic... at this point and before finding the fracture! notice that this connecting rod was not properly greased... my question is... was that lack of lubrication the cause of the breakage or effect/consequence? I appreciate any message etc...regarding the book! I don't have it yet and I know it's the bible... but here I haven't been able to get it. I've soaked up the canary videos :) (videos of incredible content). by the way... bizarre but take the heads off with the exhaust manifolds on. It seems to me an easier way to work on them!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by myflat6

Yikes! Yep, the crank is broken. Sorry to see that.

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well... my father has spent 30 years considering what the mechanic had told him back in the day... today it was confirmed that they are not painful since we are looking for another rebuilt engine, this was secondary... due to the damage I have seen for now it is rebuildable !! so when I finish opening I will be able to assess correctly... the strange thing is that I have not found metal. was it a clean break?

I have raised the motor to the support, I will clean it, I will lower it, I will disassemble the second cylinder head... then I will try to open it. All the screws are out but the casing does not take off

If the casing was fine... What part would need machining? All? Even if the piston or liner is fine, should it be machined? What would be the approximate cost? I will upload photos of the current state if someone thinks they are interesting!! Salds
Attachment 575383Attachment 575384Attachment 575386Attachment 575387Attachment 575388Attachment 575389Attachment 575385

in the photo of the connecting rod... You can see how it lacks lubrication! When the crankshaft starts, oil stops entering?

Attachment 575395Attachment 575396Attachment 575397Attachment 575398

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Attachment 575403

Very interesting!. That is an unusual break. It appears the mechanic knew what he was saying about the broken crank. When you can, get good detailed photos of the break so that we can see if the cause of the break can be determined.
If you are going to mount it on an engine stand, you need a special yoke (P201) that attaches to just one side of the case. It is used with heavy duty stand (P313) and flywheel lock (P215).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by davep

Very interesting!. That is an unusual break. It appears the mechanic knew what he was saying about the broken crank. When you can, get good detailed photos of the break so that we can see if the cause of the break can be determined.
If you are going to mount it on an engine stand, you need a special yoke (P201) that attaches to just one side of the case. It is used with heavy duty stand (P313) and flywheel lock (P215).

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I have the photos, the videos are on instgram! Now I upload images in detail!! It did not have the "yoke" so I opted to reduce the weight...once it was reduced I put it on the support and finished working there....I have treated "the weights" with great care but for now I see it as quite stable. Right now I am holding the engine casing with the generic support...With two screws BUT WITH LITTLE WEIGHT! IN CASE SOMEBODY THINK TO FOLLOW MY STEPS!! WITH NO WEIGHT...just the core. The yoke was too expensive for me.
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I would like to ask... a crankshaft is made of some special steel that starts and does not leave residues?
Attachment 575408Attachment 575409Attachment 575410Attachment 575411Attachment 575412Attachment 575413Attachment 575414Attachment 575415
Attachment 575416

I have been very happy doing this. I hope that someone, "in time" will find these photos useful... do you think the crankshaft breakage has been as destructive as expected?

The break looks quite clean. I suspect that the presence of main bearing saddles on both side of the break helped to contain the separation of the halves. You will need a careful inspection of the case and rods to see if they can be reused.

A lucky break.
Amazing that nothing came through the case. Very little banging on the breaks, must have shut it down quickly.

not. That's what's interesting and it amazes me... my father *drove the car around a couple of kilometers. the only thing that occurs to me is that where the oil was poured and kept the place greased is a thought but... any luck? you can see it well? these motors are extremely hard! How can I assess if there are burn marks? when magnesium changes its properties... what color does it take?

You could go through all sorts of failure analysis but at this point I would only be concerned about your ability to still use the remaining parts and your capability (or your mechanic’s) ability to put them all back together properly. That was one heavy duty fracture.

Attachment 575486Attachment 575487Attachment 575488Attachment 575489Attachment 575490Attachment 575491Attachment 575492Attachment 575493Attachment 575494Attachment 575495

Attachment 575496Attachment 575497

I have found two damages in the block.
the first are the marks that can be seen in this last photo and the second I have to take a photo. I think nothing to worry about.

At this point I feel compelled to ask... is this no longer a "practice" engine? According to what I appreciate, could it be rebuildable?

Everything is rebuildable. It just takes time and money.

I know I need the book but I would like to ask... Do I have to take measurements of the block to buy a crankshaft? Or is it understood that the supports are fine? The "dolls/benches" I understand...they will all be changed but I wonder about measurements etc...Starting from the fact that I need a new crankshaft...What supports should I buy? Originals? Oversized depending on the measurements of the crankshaft you buy?
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I'll take pictures of the piston skirts in detail if anyone finds them interesting!

I truly appreciate your enthusiasm. We all have to start somewhere. Do you have access to a machine shop?

You should read an engine rebuilding book before you buy anything.

You definitely need the services of a machine shop. First thing I would do if the shop says it looks good visually would be to have the cases and rods magna-fluxed to see if there are any tiny cracks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Theunz

You definitely need the services of a machine shop. First thing I would do if the shop says it looks good visually would be to have the cases and rods magna-fluxed to see if there are any tiny cracks.

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This comment is good for me, the idea is not to buy anything yet (for that I need a lot of learning) but to get some idea. Check the casing by the method that you indicate... How much does it cost in your country? I think that is the point where to start

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 72targa

I truly appreciate your enthusiasm. We all have to start somewhere. Do you have access to a machine shop?

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Yes! here are some good turners who have worked on porsche engines!! the intention is to verify the block and supports.

Most here send the block off to a qualified machine shop used to dealing with these engines for inspection, rods too. There a good shop will clean and evaluate, most line bore and shuffle pin on these mag cases. Lots of work on these older cases.
Have you labeled your rods, pistons and cylinders?
It may be myth, but not a good idea to keep the halves apart for long.

I have not disassembled the connecting rods yet, the pistons if I have them marked along with their shirts! we are evaluating workshops but I am stuck at the point of looking at a new crankshaft. In theory... what should I do? buy one "that is more or less good", take it to review and then put oversized bushings? in basic theory... all this I am expanding so it is not to buy neither today nor tomorrow etc... with respect to having it open!! Okay, I try to keep it greased and covered but I have no doubt that having it open for a long time is bad! I'm going to seriously investigate who can do a job of this type here or on the peninsula

Tienden a deformarse si no se mantienen atornilladas las mitades del block.

Attachment 575578Attachment 575579Attachment 575580Attachment 575581Attachment 575582Attachment 575583Attachment 575584Attachment 575585

I have labeled the cylinders and pistons and I have also labeled the two connecting rods that I have removed. Remove the two that "supposedly ran out of lubrication" one of them the one closest to the break has a broken bushing. I understand...it was the cause of the friction when the crankshaft continued to rotate
on the other hand... are those edges of fatigue?
the skirts of all the pistons are "perfect"

Next week the engine is going to the mechanic. He told me to upload the heads apart from the "engine". The heads are fine but I would like to ask... obviously they have to be treated, right? Observing our engine and not seeing more damage than the crankshaft and the wrists etc... what work should be done to the heads? Rectified even if they had no losses?

considerations of the mechanic after seeing the engine in his workshop. The "shirts" and the pistons look good, however he recommends the change. Is it necessary? He told me that these cannot be rectified due to the material from which they were made, although they could be seen with a few "kilometers". He recommends that I do head work. Valves etc...a complete job on each of them and also check the cams...I would like to ask. These works fall under the "standard" of repairs right? They are works that I think are necessary but I would like to hear opinions... I would also like to know what price is around the work of the heads. Rectified etc...regarding the crankshaft, he tells me that with the measurements he has, talk to the grinding machine and check if it is suitable before buying. What should I look for when buying a crankshaft other than scratches? depths? If yta has been rectified before?
Attachment 576346

If you do not trust your mechanic, why are you using him? You will get lots of options on this site on how to build an engine but a good builder isn’t going to change the way they build engines just because you read it on the internet. Did you ever read the engine building books? They will help you understand what and why your builder is doing things the way they do. I’m not trying to be hash. I just know that building an engine “by committee” isn’t a road to success.

It is a little silly to do the bottom end and pistons and cylinders and not get new guides and the valve seats redone.
Your index, might as well do it right. In those books you will find a list of parts you will need to replace, quite long. You need to do a budget and wait until you can afford to do it correctly.

when I say the complete work on the heads it is the complete work. Seats etc... I'll call tomorrow so they can tell me the job, so far I'm doing the budget for the heads. Changed everything except valves. Springs, guides etc etc... The intention is to wait to have the pieces to carry the heads and do the work, nothing to wait with the stock in a place for pieces to arrive! I think it is the best method. Regarding the mechanic. I trust perfectly. He is quite well known here by people who drive in rallies etc... from my point of view today we offered him money in advance. I reject him because he has a lot of work...that from my point of view speaks to his honesty. So the issue of mistrust with that mechanic is totally ruled out.
Regarding the parts of the cylinder heads, I have budgeted all of the ones on the page except for the valves in the necessary quantities...Attachment 576371

And I don't know where you get that I'm going to make the engine? I think I have always said that I will go to a mechanic if we decide that this engine is the one we keep and for now that is the way. I took the engine to the mechanic today and after looking at it for a while he recommended that. When I have the cylinder heads ready and a crankshaft and he has time, he will take care of it...While it is time to look for the indicated parts and follow the procedure that he indicates to me.
*I am looking for the parts for the 74 2.7S
Another question that occurs to me is if I buy the "pack" of Mahle pistons + cylinders... Obviously the segments are included, etc. assembled? Rossepassion is where I plan to get supplies

I have left the cylinder heads at the mechanic. rectify valve seats, guides, align connecting rods! New cylinders and pistons will be purchased after verifying their ovality... the budget for the two heads is approximately 600e. I think it's a good first step for the engine

you are only doing 2 heads?

sorry, for me the head is the set of 3... let's say that then 6 and 12 valves are being made etc...
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Regarding the crankshaft breakage, according to the mechanic, it seems to be the cause of a bad ignition adjustment. explosion when not playing and subsequent fatigue.

I have been researching the engine type and engine numbers for a few weeks now. I hadn't touched or even looked at these prints until quite recently. And I tell you. The engine number appears to be stamped. Not because of the numbers (in the absence of seeing them well) but because of the "pentagons" that I found instead of the stars (I commented on this in another post in this forum)... The curious thing for me is that it coincides with the type of next to. the engine is 614XXX.... the type 911/92 despite the fact that my father believed it was that of an S, I have been able to verify that it is not, since the S 2.7 type was 911/93, correct? Therefore we have here a 150hp 2.7L engine.... The interesting thing here is also the fact that although the engine number coincides with the type in the type there is something else written....... ....... AT. AT I have not found anything. So I have to understand that something happened with this engine** while in Germany? The mechanics have seen that the engine does not seem to have many kilometers...so... Our engine according to stamps is a TYPE 911/92AT.
Something nonsense I guess?
"the at differs from the prints of the type"

A replacement case possibly?

AT stamped on a case means a factory replacement case with the original numbers stamped on it. Probably/possibly rebuilt at the factory given where it originally was and the person who owned it.
Also because it is obviously rebuilt you should be looking at the part numbers for all of the internal parts. Cams, heads, induction components etc to see what they are. It may have been upgraded to S spec when rebuilt and other changes may have been made making it very non stock ( especially given it’s supposed use in Germany) so the cause of the failure may have even been tuning it as a standard engine when it was not

as always... a pleasure to read your answers HughH*! I really... thank you very much. I haven't ordered certain things yet although I was planning to do so today. Having seen this... should I wait for the cylinder heads to be disassembled to see what parts they are made of? Very basic question but what is the difference between a 2.7 and a 2.7S? Camshaft? On the other hand your theory Huhg! I'll give you some information to see if it helps you. We have found 1 or 2 pistons with small valve marks. Carbon around time but not in the marks from what I have to understand that the valves were touching "minimally" After an adjustment until breaking since there is no carbon in the "mark" of the piston... I have seen the manual workshop, the difference in valve closure between the 2.7 and 2.7s. Is this the possible cause of our broken motor? What components do I check to see if it is a 2.7s? I was thinking of ordering the pistons and liners today (I think the 2.7 ones don't differ from the 2.7S ones) but just to be sure... I'm sorry I'm such a noob but I really like my doubts to be explained...poor very silly to make me seem.
and thanks72targa! Sometimes my messages are not clear!
I'm going to see if I can take photos of the marks that I mention so that it stays here for posterity.
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If this is still interesting ... I have no problem illustrating with more images and more questions. I've thought about trying to locate the wife of the previous owner of the engine .... but the truth. pff.....

Attachment 576454
why did the engine look "so new"?
my father says that the vehicle accelerated almost the same as the original of 72... Therefore it is difficult for me to believe that my father would not notice the difference of 40 CV
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Um... I think this is getting complicated. The heads were manufactured according to date 9/77************um not all, I'm going to check the numbers since I don't have the heads with me right now..
Attachment 576485Attachment 576486Attachment 576487
Number piece: 9111043450r
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Attachment 576460
I must understand from the visual inspection that my pistons are 2.7 normal. Correct? Do they differ visually in the central point among many other things?
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I have to get to the camshaft and its number to know what I have, right? is there any other method? I understand that the parts that I show in the image are the ones that differ in type 92 and 93. Should I assume (or is it a mistake?) that components of type 93 would have been used? Or can it be any other?
Attachment 576467
one of those supposed differences would be between the piece with number 911.105.141.00 and 911.105.143.00

I have left the cylinder heads in the mechanic for the mentioned works. I'll ask if I can stop by and if I can't, send me some photos. I have to tell the mechanic that the cylinder heads are where they are going to be worked on. He told me to let him know and I will. Perhaps there we will draw clearer conclusions on this matter but I am forced to ask... Any special consideration in this case? I was thinking of sticking with the original plan. They make the seats for me and look at everything. There they recommended me "not to change" all the components of the cylinder heads since they saw it as an unnecessary expense. In the same way and although they told me that the valve guides would be fine... I would like to buy them... And I will do it so that they can change them (I understand that they are the same as those of the normal 2.7 although I will review what I say) for another side I wonder... Is it advisable to change all the valves? Since one of the pistons has a mark, one must be "minimally" bent or so I think... Therefore. Change all the valves? Feel free to say what you want! Thank you!!
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-e...ams-carbs.html
[ATTACH=CONFIG]576476Attachment 576478[/ATTACH]
Attachment 576477
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connecting rods number 911.103.105.0R
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Attachment 576488

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I have the registration of the vehicle and also a partial copy of the papers of the vehicle from which the engine comes, although it does not say anything relevant or VIN, only the name of the owner and some dates. I would like to ask... to access a record of repairs of a Porsche, of which the Porsche does not exist since it had an accident but the engine does.... How do you ask the Porsche for that?
The piston showing the mark after cleaning shows the number 1 on its head.^notrelevant

something I don't understand...According to my casting number, my heads are 2.7 "normal" k1819T heads with a 32/32 diameter port. Should I look at the port size to check if it has been "enlarged"? I haven't been able to see the camshaft yet and I'm still researching the heads and casting numbers etc... But I wonder what parts I could look at other than the heads to check "if there is" any modification to my engine. The dates of the heads are from the year 78 so I don't understand much. They are heads by cast number of my 2.7 from 1974 normal correct? Or am I looking at the table wrong....? On the other hand, look at the cylinders... I didn't find much and I haven't tried the magnet thing yet, but this doesn't worry me since "as far as""""I know""" they are the same in the 2.7 as in the S or career...
For the first order it doesn't matter (I think) if it's one thing or another since I'm only going to order pistons and valve guides. But when it comes to looking at the valves, I have doubts about this whole thing. Noobs questions but before I buy anything I want to try to make sure. The mechanic told me to let him know when the heads were disassembled in the other workshop, but for that he might have a week or more left. I wanted to order the "spare parts" so as not to have the heads in the workshop for a long time.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-e...reference.html

The person redoing your heads should be able to verify dimensions.
All parts you want to reuse should be checked to see if they are in specification.
I can't imagine why you would not change valve guides if the heads are apart.

911/92 AT is interesting. The AT means AusTausch, replacement engine.
This engine was certainly provided by the factory to replace a faulty unit of the same kind into a 1974 2.7.

911: engine type 911/92, 150bhp at 5700rpm / 173lb-ft at 3800rpm, 8.0:1 compression ratio, Bosch K-Jetronic fuel-injection

Thank you very much for those notes...I'm going to call the shop to tell them to take pictures of the camshaft and hole measurements...That was my question, if I could tell the shop so they can check it. The guides and the rubbers will be changed! The springs, unless one of them is a match, and the valves, I am going to order 3 of each just in case, since I see one of the pistons marked, I have to understand that some valve will have some deviation! What doesn't interest me is having the cylinder heads disassembled for a long time...rather having the parts here for when they are needed...let's see if today I dare to buy the pistons etc...Regarding the definition of the engine... .Knowing that it is a 911/92 and my father says that he hardly noticed a difference with the 72 911S (although who knows if it was really that engine) then... I think that there will be some adjustment to save those 40 hp difference? .. I'm going to call the workshop to see what they say!

from the workshop they tell me camshaft 911.105.141.ooR
intake size 46
exhaust:40
camshaft for 911/92 correct..?
from what I understand... the camshaft is a normal 2.7, the size of the holes and the number of pieces correspond.... what modification would this engine have? None?
By the way... when my father bought the engine the story he had been told was that the man who died was testing the car because they had fixed "a noise"... I think I'll never know but maybe that's why he was a slightly scratched one of the chain casings
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how to differentiate the camshaft of 1973.5 from the one of 1974? I told the mechanic to measure the diameter of the valves, should I tell him something else? Do the camshafts have a cast number? Tomorrow I will go to pick up the disassembled cylinder heads to clean them, then I will return them to you with the spare parts so that you can carry out all the budgeted work. For now I have been told that the parts are generally fine....
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I ask measure the tree? Is that the only way?
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I have also ordered the books. 50€ plus 10e for shipping... I suppose that there I will learn a large part of the doubts that I am raising........

This would be ideal for you save lots of headache:
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2-...ign=2022-06-21

Nice hardware..

Attachment 576735

didn't sell at 23k. Nice build but he should have provided lot more specification info and maybe some pics of being built.

Hello, I came to see the auction! Thank you very much for the information, although the auctions are "complicated" for us... The cylinder heads have been returned to me. I will only say that I will no longer leave work that I can do to external companies... I would have enjoyed disassembling the camshafts much more myself instead of having them disassembled. I have several doubts about this although I may already know an answer..........
In the disassembly, the order of the valves, springs, bearings is "lost"... The seats are going to be made and the new guides put in, etc. after I clean the parts... my question is. I know that it has been done wrong by losing the order... but when making new entries can the order be corrected and be correctly? I understand that yes...On the other hand they have given me the measurements of the lobes of the camshaft. I have to check the tolerances in the manual now but I think they are quite good.
37.97..........37.40

Are we talking about a standard 2.7 camshaft from 1974 according to measurements?

As I have commented...the order of the rocker shafts was lost...I have looked at them and they are fine...I think there is no wear...I did not intend to touch the camshaft but with the book in hand it says clearly that if you plan to reuse the rocker shafts or buy new ones... You must maintain order or in the event that the rockers were new, the camshaft would have to be polished, otherwise it would cause greater wear on the shaft. Being at this point, where I have no order in the rockers. I find myself obliged to polish the camshafts, correct? Even if they are in good condition... Having lost their order... is correct polishing ?

Regarding the car that this engine comes from, I have a doubt. Having the engine number and knowing that it corresponds to the year 74... What relationship does it have with the 911 SC? The Sc began to be manufactured in 78? If this were so, I have a doubt... At home there has always been a 911SC logo from the vehicle to which the engine belonged. This has always confused me and now I want to ask... Is it normal for a vehicle to have the "911SC" rear logo and this engine?
Part #: 911 559 337 01
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the studs that join the block are magnetic.
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I've been checking the chain tensioner... They look like the standard 2.7 ones. The sprocket I think also although it has a number that I have to see well... On the other hand the chain casings... It's a noob question but the numbers do not coincide with those in the book. I'm sure I'm looking at it wrong or something I don't understand because I think that the chain case is also the standard one. I have to "take" the probability that this motor is a replacement. A "standard" replacement without any modifications?
And in that case... This motor initially came with an 11-blade fan? Or should I have the 5?

I do not understand this. when I picked up the cylinder heads they had removed two guides from one of the heads.... this is the state in which they give them to me and he asked me if this "deformation that can be seen in clean metal" in the mouth of the valve guide It is normal...? I understand that not. But is it a modification or bad practice on the part of the workshop? If it were the latter, I would not understand how a workshop with so much experience and in such a simple job could have done this. I've tried looking for detailed photos of this but I can't get much.Attachment 577351

You have to make sure the shop has experience on aluminum heads. I had a Porsche dealer once crack three of my heads when they put in new guides. They then charged me for three new heads. It is a friction fit so they must be reamed to the exact dimension for the new guides.
Trying to do this piecemeal is going to cause you headaches. The shop has to take responsibility for the whole process, cleaning, guides, valve seats grinding calve seats, lapping the valves in, setting springs. They should give you the fully assembled heads.

umm I didn't want to get into it but the job they had to do was supposed to be the one you mention. I took the assembled parts to them so that they could disassemble them correctly and reassemble them correctly. Once they were disassembled, I was supposed to go find them to clean them myself... and return them to be assembled... when I picked up the work....have I noticed that my pieces have been taken as practices? From what I have seen, despite being a grinding machine from 1960, do we not know how to work these cylinder heads? what they return to me is everything disassembled, without any order... one camshaft was outside and the other was left inside the casing (did they get bored at the end of so much disassembly?)... then I look, I see that they only took out two guides of valves when they had to remove them all... I start to observe and what I see is that... as if someone who had no fucking idea had worked on it and this has made me quite angry. one goes with a good attitude, eager to learn and turns to people who charge for their work or to receive this? From ignorance I think that this was not a correct way to proceed... now I see myself in the situation of... either continue with these people who I doubt too much, look for another one or try to see how difficult it is to extract the guides . I have the invoice for the work that was supposedly going to be done for me, so I left the pieces there. included everything you say RS. but when I pick up things, what they give me is this... so I am at this point and I prefer to be honest with this... others would keep this information... greetingsAttachment 577389

Baudett, you need to find a machine shop that specializes in Porsches. There was no one in the state of Oklahoma where I live that was capable of rebuilding my heads. Fortunately I was only a 4 or 5 hour drive from Ed Mayo’s shop in Texas so I took them there. Many here in the US are sending their engines across the country to have them properly machined. Surly you can find a specialist in Europe to send yours to. You have already spent enough money with the idiots who didn’t know what they were doing to cover shipping charges. I understand shipping is very high right now, but so is having to purchase a new engine. Good luck.

Pack up all your engine bits, find a good engine builder and send him the whole lot when you have enough money to cover the rebuild. It will be cheaper and less frustrating in the end. I am sure some of our euro members here can have recommendations.
Fiddle with the bodywork all you want but get a proper engine rebuild.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RSTarga

Pack up all your engine bits, find a good engine builder and send him the whole lot when you have enough money to cover the rebuild. It will be cheaper and less frustrating in the end. I am sure some of our euro members here can have recommendations.
Fiddle with the bodywork all you want but get a proper engine rebuild.

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that was the idea. The body can be "more to taste/technique" of the owner but the engine has to be perfect. I have always known that the path of the engine passes through the mechanic and not through my hands... I will inform myself about builders in Europe... in the same way I will try to give the workshops here one more opportunity. The former head of the Porsche house is still in his workshop, he went with my father to buy the car in the 80's and the other day we went by there to see what he had to say about the engine... I'll come back to him, I'll tell him about the problem I have had in the grinding machine and I will ask him who he works with. (Many Porsches are repaired on this island) and I don't believe that here they don't know how to do a correct valve guide job. I don't believe it or I don't want to believe it. Apparently I'm going to have to get into the world of workshops on my island to understand why a simple job becomes complicated. I have seen how the valve guides are worked on the 911 in the videos, how the measurements are taken, etc... It does not seem to me such a complicated job for a workshop that has the machinery. Is this correct right? With the book in hand, one understands a little more things... but I thought the book would be clearer with certain topics like this. When I read it I realize that the book I thought was something like "like the bible" is actually a "summary of the bible"...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Theunz

Baudett, you need to find a machine shop that specializes in Porsches. There was no one in the state of Oklahoma where I live that was capable of rebuilding my heads. Fortunately I was only a 4 or 5 hour drive from Ed Mayo’s shop in Texas so I took them there. Many here in the US are sending their engines across the country to have them properly machined. Surly you can find a specialist in Europe to send yours to. You have already spent enough money with the idiots who didn’t know what they were doing to cover shipping charges. I understand shipping is very high right now, but so is having to purchase a new engine. Good luck.

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From my point of view... I have always had "envy" in the geographical area. Both at a Spanish and foreign level you realize that being here you miss many things.
Regarding the losses... I have to check but that "fissure" or crack that is observed... I hope it is not such. If not a manufacturing defect? Or if or if it burst when removing the previous valve? I will try to assess the head better to see if it is totally lost.

Don't feel bad, even in the US there are few mechanics with the skills and machinery to execute a full rebuild in house, there are some, but they barely have any teeth.
Most shops send the machining portion of engine rebuilds to a couple of specialists. Fuel injection pumps to two specialists, refinishing of wheels to maybe three or four.
Brake calipers to one, upholstery to three or four, etc.
Then they assemble the finished parts.

meanwhile I'm decarbonizing the valves... One question. Does the book say that exhaust valves should not be reused? Can you know why? I've decarbonized them and they don't look too bad. Once I finish this I will begin to measure them... Kill time while I am looking at the other motor issues...
Also check the head... It doesn't look like it's cracked.

Attachment 577442Attachment 577443Attachment 577444Attachment 577445Attachment 577446

I have used a bit of water sandpaper and 3 in 1 to try to remove the joints! It's going well although you need some time... 1200 sandpaper. I'll keep cleaning! waiting to know where to make the valve guides. once the guide is in place... can I make the seats myself using different polishes? or when making the guide do you need to grind the seat with machinery?Attachment 577447
I'm not touching the valve seats. I leave that for the person in charge of doing the machining... but should I leave that surface clean? I'd rather not touch it... I'll search the forum now but it asked me about the weight of each valve. I can't find reference in the book? Weigh it before decarbonizing. One of them had 8 gr of charcoal...

Your machine shop should have an ultrasonic cleaner or something similar. You shouldn’t be doing their job. I would get your parts from them and find a shop that knows Porsche heads. They should have come back looking like new.

umm... at that site they told me that they didn't clean them with their machine because they would itch. but now I'm thinking.... he also told me that he didn't do it because the magnesium stings.... would you think that these heads were made of magnesium and that's why I didn't clean them? I would go to the same place and ask them to clean the parts but observing the work shown... I would look for another workshop! I will also talk to the mechanic to show him the head and see what he thinks of the "removal of the guide" job... I want to see what he says.... I understand, so can the heads be cleaned with ultrasound?The mechanic told me that when I had the parts clean, I should upload them.... seen how things are going, I think I'll finish cleaning sooner!
I have all the pieces with me!! I still have to check if when they disassembled the connecting rods they mounted the lower part correctly

They are aluminum.

Which book are you referencing? How does a machine shop not know the difference between aluminum and magnesium?

worthwhile reading:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...e_Shop_101.htm

I have both... today's to rebuild and modify by wayne is the one I'm looking more "deeply"... And good question. The rectification workshop told me that they had had another client who had had complaints, etc... As if they were afraid of the parts. But... if he saw them in person, how could he not differentiate alu from magnesium? ... is a great question. When I told the mechanic that the grinding machine had told me that they did not deal with cleaning because the cylinder heads were made of magnesium, he made a strange face. The next thing he told me was that once they were clean, he would take them to him so he could see them. I guess I noticed something strange in the "rectifier's" response... and certainly... I hadn't paid attention to whether it was a metal or another yta that I was not going to deal with it... now that I am doing it, I think I can say that it is easy to distinguish alu from magnesium...

I have verified that all the guides have an excessive movement. Since the engine marks 80oooKm. Is that wear normal? What guides do you ride? Porsche standard? (I'm ignoring the oversize)
Attachment 577478Attachment 577479

Where is the weight of valves?
I am interested in knowing if today 100% of the exhaust valves are still discarded?

IGIC

simple question. Does something happen if I soak the cylinder heads in Diesel or gasoline overnight? Does gasoline affect aluminum in any way?

The plan for now will be to restore the heads. I buy the guides and some consumables more these days. Once you have the cylinder heads restored "correctly" and the valves are seated correctly. I can say that I have heads to mount on a block... Restore mine 911/92TA or buy another... We'll see. For now I'm going to focus on the heads... making them usable. I am worried about having to polish the camshaft and "rocker arms**"... I know I shouldn't ask this but... What level of wear do I face if I don't polish the cams and shaft? I read a comment in a forum in which they said that the wear was especially fast on the shaft... I understand that with 80,000km the cams have already settled in the position that should go with the shaft... I must understand that when rebuilding the engine the odometer was reset to 0 or the engine does not seem to have 80000 km? I say this because I would like to know about the wear of the rocker arms**. I look at the cams and see that "friction" is not the same in all of them. Some touch more in the center than others etc and I understand that this is where "the problem" is, having lost order.... If now I seat another cam that already has wear, but it begins to wear elsewhere... .The problem would be the camshaft and wear on the wrist correct? I've tried to look at where everything could go... I thought about taking an ink signature of the rocker arm* and then trying to see if it matches the tree but I see it as a stupid process and with 0% probability of working... But I try to think something before spending the money....

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You really need to get the heads bead blasted to clean them properly before machining. Properly done heads are critical to achieving the best performance from your engine. Send them off to a decent machinist, freight may be expensive but spending money on parts that are not properly installed will give you headaches in the future.
You want to be frugal, but it will cost you more in the end.

is ultrasonic cleaning better than shot blasting?
From my point of view, I would rather not throw sand at it.

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this crankshaft.
https://www.ebay.es/itm/154783068500

its okay?
In the places that I have been informed about, they will do the test for microcracks and the rectification work of 25 is around €500.
I have ordered the guides and gaskets,nuts,etc for the heads...When I have the heads I will buy the pistons and cilynders but I would like to buy the crankshaft as soon as possible...
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Attachment 577616
What happens here for this carcass to "itch" that way? It is not mine, but since it is a 1974 and they will be more or less the same age, I am worried about the state of that one, will mine stay that way over the years or does the image show that it was treated poorly at some point? Ours when we open it... "It's perfect" so I don't understand how there can be so much difference in an "internal" part... that doesn't suffer external friction etc...
https://www.soloporsche.com/xf/index...a.90631/page-7
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Attachment 577617Attachment 577618Attachment 577619Attachment 577620Attachment 577621Attachment 577622

I think I have not found any improvement in this engine. It remains to find out the 5 or 11 blade fan if it was original to the engine or not. Why could this motor be misconfigured? My father says that the last time the vehicle was in the mechanic he was with the "lamp"... adjusting the ignition I understand. It worked fine for a few days or weeks (I don't know) and then it broke down on a highway. Observing the mark of the piston and the valve (I haven't seen a bent valve yet but the rectifier will notice that). Observing those details... Did the engine break due to a bad ignition adjustment? There is no improvement that causes confusion, therefore I believe that the hand of a mechanic with little experience (even on a standard engine) was the cause. If anyone appreciates a piece that should be reviewed to see if there is any improvement, I appreciate your comment. I would also like to ask if the gaskets for the Rocker arms of the rsr are included in the rossepassion gasket pack? My intention is to leave this engine identical to how it is. So I don't know whether to put those together. I'm also not going to do the chain tensioner upgrade.

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I would also like to ask. in the arm of the chain tensioner in an internal angle I thought I saw a "microfissure". I came up with the brilliant idea of ​​subtly scratching with a screwdriver and what before looked like a crack in the part now looks like nothing. My question is, do the chain tensioners have a coating or similar? My impression was that there was a little chipping in that area. But given the area that it is, the arm... I don't think I'd take any risk. Has anyone seen a cracked chain tensioner arm?

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Very noob question but I have to ask it. What are thermal reactors? Or the thermal parts that I have to look at?

Secondly. I've ordered a suicide mission. As soon as the pieces of the guides etc arrive, which I suppose will be this coming week, the pieces will be sent to ultrasound and the seats will be made (THE HEADS AND THE UPPER COVER OF THE HEAD)
I have also bought a crankshaft, this will have to be rectified to 0.25.
in a week I will have updated images
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for now in parts... 1300 crankshaft, €700 spare parts to make the heads good and set of engine gaskets. The pistons and cylinders are missing as expensive "parts" and the rest I think are expendable. With the exception of the chain tensioners, which I have to take a good look at... For now, I estimate that we will spend 1,300 for the crankshaft, 800€ for the head parts, and 800€ more for connecting rod bushings, bearings, etc. Plus the 3k of the cylinders and pistons... So we are close to €6000 in parts. At least I hope, when spending on this engine... we know what we are mounting etc... Of work we would have to continue adding more things... the work on the heads around €500 more... The rectification of the crankshaft another €500/700. Checking the connecting rods takes another good "bit" of money. So...6k of pieces plus €2000 more or less of machining work etc... that's already 8K. The mechanic is missing :)...I think, we are still in figures to restore our engine. If it works of course. I haven't seen anything about the injection. Is your restoration expensive? My father says that it worked perfectly, I understand then, I just have to change the gaskets and consumables in the injection?

questions. When selling an engine, how do you take being told that it has another crankshaft with touched measurements and 0.25MM bushings? We are evaluating whether to go for another crankshaft and I would like to ask... the STD letters that accompany the definition of the crankshaft means "STANDARD"? how many of you and why? they would put a standard crankshaft instead of one at - 0.25MM. If you put a Standard one... standard bushings etc right? the STD crankshaft is around 3000. The one that has to be rectified around 1500 + 500 of polishing work + the bushings with the correct dimensions... we almost put ourselves at 3000. So I feel obliged to ask this. On the other hand, I have found damage to the intermediate shaft and also opened the oil filter. You can see metal particles on the outer side of the sheets, not on the inner side....however, everything will have to be cleaned extremely well and I wonder...how to clean the radiator and the oil tank...
Attachment 577832Attachment 577833Attachment 577834Attachment 577835Attachment 577836
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On the other hand, I thought I detected a crack in the chain tensioner arm. Can someone confirm that this is where this piece breaks?
Attachment 577837Attachment 577838Attachment 577839Attachment 577840

a crank
https://www.early911sregistry.org/fo...-standard-quot

I have asked him! Thanks for the link.. I hadn't seen it and I like that it's from the community. On the other hand I would like to delve into the chain tensioner. I think about taking a file and scraping that area to see if it's a crack or just a layer of coating or metal. It is a good idea? I speak superficially but since we are talking about a piece that if I discard, I would have to spend another €500, I would like to be sure that it is "defective". Today I will look at it better and see but I would like to know if there is any image of a broken chain tensioner on the net or on the forum.

Attachment 577952
New parts... Guides etc..

That was a well-used motor. Corrosion on the case half connection surfaces. Micro-pitting on the gears. Cracks in the tensioners. And that cracked crankshaft earlier. If it were me, I would be starting with a lot of new parts.

Buy my 3.0, take a weekend (or less) to install it and you could be driving the rest of the summer.
Even though it's not cheap, you will need to spend a lot of time and money to get your engine running again.

https://www.early911sregistry.org/fo...90#post1129890

I agree
so far the more you have looked into your engine the more issues that have arisen- it is certainly anything but what you thought it to be and there appears to be poor workmanship leading to the failure - however it could be worse than just poor workmanship - it could be a poorly conceived engine rebuild design /choice of spec so even if you replicated it it may have the same underlying issues
if you are not careful you will be replacing a great majority of the parts - at a much higher cost in the end than biting the bullet and buying a running one that is almost "plug and play"

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 72targa

That was a well-used motor. Corrosion on the case half connection surfaces. Micro-pitting on the gears. Cracks in the tensioners. And that cracked crankshaft earlier. If it were me, I would be starting with a lot of new parts.

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or not...thank god that is not my case, I took it as an example from the post that I attached just below. I was wondering what would have brought that casing to that state? How do joints rust? Was that block open and that's why it rusted like this? In our case, the block is perfect as far as the joints are concerned. So far I haven't seen any damage to the block. I thought there was one but from what I've seen it's normal in all cases (there was a part that seemed broken but it's from the foundry itself). On the other hand... Regarding the engine, I am amazed that my father drove with it and not found the crankshaft scratched. I would like to ask about the oil cycle. I opened the filter and in the "cardboard" on the outside you can see metal particles between the fins. On the inside of the cardboard it looks clean. My question is... Do the metal particles always "pass" the filter? And in that case... why don't I see scratches on the crankshaft or other parts?
Regarding the chain tensioner! If anyone has more info, I appreciate you publishing it, I have to take pictures again to be sure they are not shadows!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HughH

I agree
so far the more you have looked into your engine the more issues that have arisen- it is certainly anything but what you thought it to be and there appears to be poor workmanship leading to the failure - however it could be worse than just poor workmanship - it could be a poorly conceived engine rebuild design /choice of spec so even if you replicated it it may have the same underlying issues
if you are not careful you will be replacing a great majority of the parts - at a much higher cost in the end than biting the bullet and buying a running one that is almost "plug and play"

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That is what worries us the most... not having found a modification and not knowing exactly why it broke... Assembling everything and breaking again. For now we have only ordered the parts for the heads...Nothing that closes the way between one thing or another and I am more inclined to buy another engine... We will value it again! And we'll see it...
Is there any history of type AT* motors that have been misconfigured or "by the factory"? I mean...there is a history of poorly assembled motors at the factory...but reassembling a part of that motor and it being wrong again...if I think about it. Maybe it fits the story. My father says he bought the engine when the previous owner was testing it because it made a noise. The engine at that time would be "NEW" and already had a little noise (observing the chain casings you can see that one of them is scratched) product of that little noise that the previous owner complained or product of the breakage of our engine? I don't know... but there would be some way to reassemble this motor, right? once mounted can not checks without starting it? From my point of view it doesn't matter to assemble and disassemble... But I don't want to discard an engine because I don't understand it. That does not mean that it will make our engine but over time if in the end we decide to buy a new engine.

we have bought a second hand crankshaft... STD measurements. for prices... I still need 5/6k in pieces to have everything... little by little.

Attachment 580340
I will attach more images to the arrival at my house of the heads made! There were two bent valves! one exhaust and one input, I'm happy with what they have done! I would also say that it has entered within a good price! I will attach the work done in detail later but it is the one mentioned above, seats, valves, guides!... assembly and decarbonization!

Attachment 580342Attachment 580343Attachment 580344Attachment 580345

I have several questions.... I would like to degrease these parts a little better. Now that the dirt is loose, could I hit it with the water pressure gun? Or would it not be advisable at all to touch these pieces now that they are assembled? On the other hand, I would like to ask about the hardness of the magnesium of the block in front of one of these water pistols... I understand that you should not hit it close... but, can these casings break with these things? In the next few weeks I would like to go through the cleaning process and I don't know if the pressure gun would be the next step

There shouldn’t be grease and dirt on freshly built heads but definitely don’t pressure wash them.

The pressure won't hurt the block, but the water will, if the block is open. Sealing surfaces on the heads look a bit dirty, once assembled I don't know how you would clean them. The valve stem has some grime too.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mepstein

There shouldn’t be grease and dirt on freshly built heads but definitely don’t pressure wash them.

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Okay, I needed that precision in the answer! I'll try to see what I can play with that doesn't degrade the rubber!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RSTarga

The pressure won't hurt the block, but the water will, if the block is open. Sealing surfaces on the heads look a bit dirty, once assembled I don't know how you would clean them. The valve stem has some grime too.

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umm I'll try to clean with some kind of steel wool?... I'll cover the valves well in the upper part... At this point I would also like to ask the typical gasoline test on the head to confirm its tightness is ruled out right? If it had a leak, it could break "the rubber"... in the same way, if it had a leak, I should disassemble that head, correct? The valves in the position in which they are mounted right now... Should they completely close the orifice for this test with gasoline?
Regarding the block... I will continue with the cleaning by hand!
Attachment 580358Attachment 580359Attachment 580358Attachment 580360Attachment 580361Attachment 580362
some are cleaner than others but I think that with patience I can leave them well and without leaving residues! Tomorrow I will post some more detailed photos since I have not examined them in depth! Today has been a somewhat "moved" day.
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Attachment 580451Attachment 580452Attachment 580453Attachment 580454

I realized that I have not told because in the end we decided on the path of repair. In previous comments I have expressed my fear of not having found the reason for the failure, the remounting and breaking again... I was able to clear this doubt by doing a little memory. The vehicle...the engine, worked fine for over 10 years. Being a "new" engine. I would say that it left the factory in 1980. It worked from the moment it arrived on this island until it broke perfectly. So in my thoughts I was able to clear up the doubt of "bad tuning" and direct the breakage to a bad adjustment here on the island. My father always told me that this engine was that of a 2.7 S. Far from reality, perhaps the mechanic did not check the stickers that were on the engine and was guided by my father's words. I would like to ask clearly. What damage would occur on a vehicle that fits like an S when it isn't...? "slight" mark on pistons from overtaking? Or should there be more damage...?
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I would also like to ask another thing... When they give you a replacement of an engine like this case. Is it possible that they changed the "chassis" also? I have to verify the papers of the vehicle where the engine came from but would you say that the "German traffic" sheet indicated that the vehicle was from the 80s?
I also want to write here... I feel "quite" sorry for not having been able to do the valve work myself... Maybe in another time...

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I would like to ask how to check the closure of the valves...In the book I read that it says Paint thinner?

I would like to, as usual...ask a silly question.....The screws that join the two halves of the block (x11). To close the block... Do they have to be new or can they be reused?
Do you think it's a good idea that I focus my economy on closing the block? I want that more than buying the pistons and liners... I understand, could I mount the pistons with the block already closed...?