The Bob Joyce thread!: Restoration of a 1968 911 L Targa

Kind of fitting that, today for Memorial Day Weekend. That All of the body is complete for re-assembly. All of the upholstery hangers, wiring harness hangers and all and any welding and
fabricating is complete. Approximately April 2018 to today May 2021...
These photos show that the top garnish rails on the doors and rear quarter panel line up so that when i get the door aluminum trim strips, they will line-up with the quarter panel aluminum trim.
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blacked out every thing ..
I will next selectively mask off the blacked out features.
Then under coat the entire area.
After that .... shoot the body color paint over the entire area
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yea.... I had enough time to do it twice...

PPG Environbase Light Ivory with Deltron Eurathane clear..
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shot some paint .... nice way to finish a california afternoon ...Attachment 560280Attachment 560281

Nice Sunday afternoon for painting doors
PPG Environbase Light Ivory
PPG Deltron Clear....Attachment 560769Attachment 560770Attachment 560770

Another fine afternoon for painting the engine lid.....
PPG EnvirobaseAttachment 561062 Light Ivory with PPG Deltron Clear...
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shot the final 50/50 black/grey Wurth ...
i may later buff it with a wool pad to achieve desired sheen..............Attachment 564679

Shot the final clear coat on the wind shield surround and cowl. also
shot the final clear coat in the rear turn signal housings...
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Pulled all the wrappings off the car...
i probably have one of the lowest carbon foot prints around....



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I had to suspend the painting process due to weather
So. I striped the folding Targa top down for a complete restoration...

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Found a difference of 2mm from right side to left side, front to back....
A few weeks ago, someone posted a factory video circa 1972. It showed a worker in the background, standing in a Targa and he was pulling on "wood tool" to bend the window opening back.
Looked easy...
I looked at the video again. It was "1973 Porsche 911 Factory Tour" Time 12:50 of 31:32.
The tool was really cool. It was hollow, and inside the hollow tool was a length of a gauge that he would pull out and "go-no-go measure"
Well, after two days, Sore neck, arms, back, legs and even blisters later .....I GOT IT.....
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cleaned -up, straightened and welded cracks on the aluminum roof panels...
interesting that the perimeter channels were filled with foam.
the pictures that i have seen on the net show empty channels.
here is a picture of the removed foam....Attachment 566146
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I used tap plastics foam: modified
It is very crumbly and breaks/snaps like a bread stick.
So.... I added Ditzler flex agent and produced a stiff yet flexible and sand able product.
The additive produces extreme product characteristics depending on how much flex agent is added.
For instance, one cap full of flex agent added to a couple ounces of foam produces a very flexible rubbery product.Attachment 566473



Attachment 566474

So .... here is the foam being shaped.
I actually sawed the bulk off
then Shure formed the rest...
Also, I tested each poor because they were all mixed by the seat of my pants
Here is a picture that is representative of all the pours but one
I removed one poor because it was too rubbery and could not be sanded
If you mix this tap foam without a flex agent, it will be way to brittle.

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Enjoying these updates

Here is a picture of the refurbished Targa folding roof panels.
And a picture of the sand blasted Targa folding roof frame members....
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Painted the Targa folding top frame members...Attachment 567050

Cool stuff, it should be its own thread on targa top repair!

Bob, The outer aluminum drip rails on my car need to be painted. After 55 years the paint is starting to chip. Can those be removed without taking the top all apart?
It's 67.

yes.... it is fairly straight forward... just remove the screws for all the associated parts,
should take only a few minutes, unless the screws fight you....
obviously, you will be removing the rubber weather strip and that depends on how/if, it was glued in...
P.S. i will paint my outer trim with Sem trim black. it adheres to aluminum well and is fairly durable...
if you encounter a strip of cardboard, that is shimming material and should be reinstalled for proper fit....

Straightened the side roof panels while on the frame for reference...

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Bob, your extensive work deserves its own thread. Keep sharing please!

Nice work Bob, keep us posted

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TheTorch

Bob, your extensive work deserves its own thread. Keep sharing please!

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I agree.
Start a thread!

the early Targa top was not padded so i have countersunk the rivets to keep the substraight smooth...


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Setting roof panels and adjusting/triming for a uniform gap....
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Using "Mikes Restoration " tin foil technique, making patterns for sound deadeningAttachment 568262...

With a heat gun
melted the VW 3mm felt sound deadening pad That i found at a swap meet...Attachment 568329

Finished up phase ! of the sound deadning ....
(why, end of phase 1? .... because I have no more 3mm felt)

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now that it has warmed up a bit here inthe bay area....
shot the base Light ivory on the hood...

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While the paint is drying..........
I used the left-over leather from my Roadster to cover the Targa top parts
although i can only assume that the top was the original
It defiantly had never been taken apart or recovered
So I decided to do the restoration as it was.
Special Note: They used plastic rivets in such a way that is was really hard to recover.
A few of the plastic rivets' are under the leather and attached to the top "arm".
you have to attach the piece while at the same time recover the "arm"
no wonder there are so many variants to the early top coverings............
Sorry ... cant post pictures
I am getting a security certificate message.
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Quote:

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Originally Posted by bob joyce

While the paint is drying..........

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Bob, I sure wish you were posting all this in a dedicated thread on your car's progress, rather than the "What I did today" thread. It would be too much easier to follow if other people's happenings were not interrupting your story.

Maybe a moderator could copy all your posts on your progress into a new thread?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Arne

Bob, I sure wish you were posting all this in a dedicated thread on your car's progress, rather than the "What I did today" thread. It would be too much easier to follow if other people's happenings were not interrupting your story.

Maybe a moderator could copy all your posts on your progress into a new thread?

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Bob, if you’re okay with it, I can move all of these posts to their own thread. Let me know.

Peter,
Sure, if you would be so kind to do so....
1968 911 L Targa
bob reg#3596

All set, Bob. Let me know if I missed anything. And I’ll be happy to revise the title!

Awesome work, Bob...

VERY nice work Bob.

How did you get the bolsters attached to the arm. The plastic expanders are behind the rigid foam and under the covering and really hard to line up with the holes in the arms.

first, fold the leather around the nose of the arm so that it looks correct. only doing an inch or two of the fitting...
the edge that gets wrapped around the aluminum piece is stretched lengthwise and glued...
Thien you place it on the arm and puh the rivet into the arm.
the piece that runs the length of the arm was not folded under and glued
so... i was able to partially fold it back and then placing a firm piece of plastic on top of the rivet (under the cover) and Wack it down.
...also , the new padding was punched where the rivets were to go...
a couple of the rivets went all the way home by just pushing in with finger...

for revising the title of this thread ... how about suggestions from the people who want to find it????
"a grave diggers tale"
"Just a little buffing sir"
"magic pen, as seen on tv"
"The 1968 911 L Targa"
" Xxxx xxx xxxx?

umm I don't know how... but I had missed this post. an incredible job...I really like how the stone protector turned out! A luxury of work from my thought

finishing up the Targa top frame...
There is a piece of leather that covers the hinges (kind of like a tendon)
the piece gets layed out after all is put together and then the proper length and where to punch the hole for the plastic rivetAttachment 569400 is found...Attachment 569401
Attachment 569402Attachment 569403
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I do not have the 4 caps that cover the hardware................

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bob joyce

for revising the title of this thread ... how about suggestions from the people who want to find it????
"a grave diggers tale"
"Just a little buffing sir"
"magic pen, as seen on tv"
"The 1968 911 L Targa"
" Xxxx xxx xxxx?

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Hope you like my update, Bob…

securing and straightening the roof panels with a strip of convertible top material. the eight "dogs" were adjusted snug to the panels so that there was no movement during the operation....Attachment 569444

ATTACH=CONFIG]569444[/ATTACH]

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by 72targa

Hope you like my update, Bob…

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well done Peter on putting this in one thread and then the making title in a way that it can be searched for successfully in the future

with the nice bay area weather, ... shot the PPG clear on the hood...Attachment 569675Attachment 569676

too cold to paint so i oiled up my sewing machine and for practice fashioned a mock-up piece of the Targa top cover.
Looks like the bead I have will work out once I wrap the top in burlap.....

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shot the light ivory base color on driver and passenger quarter panels


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For those that haven't already figured it out, Bob is a Saint and a very talented one at that. I have watched that car for years sink itself further in the mud and disrepair. It is just a few blocks from me and I never tried to reach out to it's owner (a relative of Bob's and unknown to me at the time) because I determined it had very little if any value as a parts car, let alone as a project. I need to drive across our very small town of El Sobrante and see Bob's work for myself.

Jim

Jim... you are welcome to drop by anytime.
but this Tuesday i am sending out my robe and hallo for cleaning.....

bob

took advantage of a nice bay area afternoon and shot the clear on the quarter panels...
(Maybe i should have jumped on a bus to Reno .... not a single bug or other foreign object landed in the clear!).
The reason i am painting things in pieces and with the doors wide open is because my body can't tolerate the atmosphere...
So far .... this works for me....
I chose the PPG water base for this reason, but the jobber could not mix this Light Ivory in any other single stage paint any way...
Ironically ... If I had shot, this car with single stage I would have been done 6 months ago ....

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Final prime for front passenger fender...

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Final prime for the driver front fender....
this will (hopefully) be the last part to paint....Attachment 570770

warm enough (plus, i put the paint cans out in the sun to warm up) to shoot the clear on the passenger front fender...Attachment 571080Attachment 571081

Great thread.

while i was waiting for paint to dry....
It was pointed out by a 912 Registry Member from across the pond that the Restoration Design front slam panel for the 1968 had an irregular shape
Because the car is already painted i decided to cut a piece off of my original 1968 Targa latch support ang graft it in....

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For St. pat's day... The final car part painted and clear coated.
Now I will allowAttachment 571397 the finish to settle and then shoot another clear coat on the intire car.....

Can’t wait to see the finished product!

This is the first part to get the final clear coat...
The driver side rear bumper
Attachment 571771

Final clear coats for front bumper and gas tank door...


Special Note: I have accepted the reality that hanging the clear out all the way will be way too risky due to fly's/debris etc.


I will color sand a little more and buff a little more and still achieve my desired finish

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final clear coat on front hood..

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Restoration Design Key Fob
Painted in Light Ivory....Attachment 572244

Nice touch Bob ...

Final clear coat on driver and passenger door...


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Very Tidy Job... Well done yourself!

final clear coat on the rear quarter panels
the rear cross member and door jambs...Attachment 575034
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the driver door had some very small solvent pops.
at first i thought i was going to sand it down and re -clear.
I ended up wet sanding with soapy water and 800 grit on a knife sharpening stone that i used as a sanding block..
luckily it all sanded out .
so now it is "cut" and preliminarily "buffed"
looks fine...

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This is really fun to watch

check this out ... the clear disk in the bottom of this 3m liner is PPG Deltron DC4010.
IT sat for a couple of weeks and the bottom of the 3m liner measures 90mm, the disk has SHRUNK to 80mm.
Wow, back in the 70's and Attachment 57547580's I knew my product very well.
On this project I have been at the mercy of the local paint jobber.
More than a 10% shrinkage is outrageous.

Back on the gun..........
Passenger fender final clearcoat.Attachment 577188
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another day of shooting
driver fender final clear coat.Attachment 577224Attachment 577225Attachment 577226

Bob
Cudos ….fantastic work and efforts
Your commitment to achieve top quality is impressive
Keep process coming

cheering on helps...thanks

one could say finishing up with a BANG !!!....
Fourth of July
the last painting finished.
Final clear coat on rear quarter panels and rear cross member...
Attachment 577381Attachment 577382Attachment 577383Attachment 577384
One nice long run from the upper left corner of the engine bay opening
It will easily sand out
the rest of the parts will cut and buff just fine............

first piece to be buffed out is the engine lid.....
block sanded with 1000 and 1500.
then D.A. with 1500,2000,3000.
then wet sanded by hand in one direction with 3000 and 5000.
then buffed with 3M #1 compound...
pictures show surface prepared with 5000. And lid buffed with 3M #1 compound.
ATTACH=CONFIG]577732[/ATTACH]Attachment 577733

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bob joyce

first piece to be buffed out is the engine lid.....
block sanded with 1000 and 1500.
then D.A. with 1500,2000,3000.
then wet sanded by hand in one direction with 3000 and 5000.
then buffed with 3M #1 compound...
pictures show surface prepared with 5000. And lid buffed with 3M #1 compound.
ATTACH=CONFIG]577732[/ATTACH]Attachment 577733

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My arm got tired just reading this! What is “D.A.”? Love this thread.

D.A. = Dual Action. Can be a sander or buffer. The sanders usually run off a compressor although my DA Buffer is electric. In his case looks like a sander.

Bob Reread your thread and you indicated that the jobber could not mix the light ivory in a single stage. Not a painter so I am probably asking a stupid question. Is it that "light ivory" cannot be made in single stage or the jobber (supplier?) could not create the color in single stage Dextron. I remember a thread where there was some controversy about getting light ivory correct and ultimate conclusion there was to use Lesonal paint I think. Just wondering about your reasoning as to choice. When Soterik recently sold his red Targa I think it was done in single stage red Dextron. Any indication from your jobber why light ivory such a problem. thanks for answer to uneducated question.

regulations for the area limited the jobber
plus, i was very specific about getting the 6804 light ivory correct color formula.
so, ultimately it was the PPG librarian that had the correct formula, and it could only be made in the base coat clear coat. Waterborne base,Deltron clear coat

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scott72

D.A. = Dual Action. Can be a sander or buffer. The sanders usually run off a compressor although my DA Buffer is electric. In his case looks like a sander.

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Thanks! Learn something new every day.

while preparing the door frames for polishing I went thru the clear on a high spot
So, this forced my hand to treat the door frames the same way i did the rest of the body
this meant color sanding and then shooting a final clearcoat.Attachment 578561
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Continues to be very fun to watch!

Coming along great!!!!

nothing like a weekend jamAttachment 578668 session...

I had to do this out of order due to the shutz gun acting up...
nevertheless, i finally undercoated the inside of the door shells Then primed the inside shell, and then painted the inside of the door shells with light ivory and clear.....

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Bob your attention to detail is stellar!

cat's pajamas! I have learned more on this thread about process & procedures than I thought was possible.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bob joyce

Finished up phase ! of the sound deadning ....
(why, end of phase 1? .... because I have no more 3mm felt)

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Great thread Bob. I'm currently restoring a 68 coupe and at paint stage, what did you decide to paint the the front fender fuel supply bowl, satin black or body color?

body color
the best searching and referencing i have done show body color

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bob joyce

body color
the best searching and referencing i have done show body color

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thanks Bob, from what I've researched as well seems like its body colour.
looking forward to see your resto updates.

here is the gas filler area...

Attachment 579388


the lower channel was painted with Eastwood body cavity with a brush...

Thanks Bob.

Are you going to assemble that release latch before you put the fender on?

yes...
i have reassembled the latch and re hung the gas door....
tedious work to get it all looking correct.
yet fun to do while on the horse...
if it was on the car ... it would be no bueno amigo...

Finishing up the undercoating operation.
i will go back and spot-in some places that were light/refinish
the piece of green tape shows the areas to do.
After this i will completely reassemble the body to assure everything is as i want it.
nothing is done until it is done.

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First of all. I want to set things straight on the undercoat cutoff line on the body of a 1968 911L.
In the picture above i somewhat randomly taped it off knowing that the "S" "L" deco trim would cover the under coat.
The undercoat line should have been much lower, approximately 80mm from the door threshold opening.
So, it would have been the same as a 1967 911 even though the deco is different for a 1967.
This was verified by the rocker piece that i have from a 1968 L coupe with original green paint and brushed on undercoating (black).
Here is a picture of the rocker piece (disregard the white stuff that was just me dialing in my spray gun)........
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Here are some pictures of the final undercoat... This procedure is now complete.
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Here are a few more....Attachment 580495
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This thread is so fun to watch!

A few more pictures of the completed undercoating...Attachment 580514
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I like the structure and look of your undercoating. It’s “exactly” as it’s on my 65 and 66.

Richard

I am not building a show car or concourse car.
What i am trying to do is build the car as if the Porsche Design Engineer was present on the floor directing the build.
So, there will be areas that are masked off in a more definitive way suiting the cars specific item/shape/use.
Obviously, I have never met any Porsche Designers in person.
I know of them by my experience with the cars and the in-depth studying and putting in steel the Workshop Drawings.
This "Spock" like lay on of hands was developed over the years of laying out construction jobs and conducting the operation to finish. (Operating Engineer)
I never had to ask what the Design Engineer was wanting because reading the plans and knowing what the desired product was gave me all the information i needed.
I could tell were the Designers got their "education/skills" if it was Caltrans, City, County or petuee, petuee Architect.

the hood buffed out......Attachment 581019Attachment 581020

The fresh air control flap cleaned up well.
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Now I’m hungry. Good to see your continued progress.

Love this thread... Awesome work, Bob!

John

Well..... It is high time that I got around to finishing these heater boxes....


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Damn ..... they did not send me the instruction sheet.............Attachment 583351

A little less nauseatingAttachment 583366............

I wonder if it would be possible to document which nuts bolts and parts were installed on the car plated and which pieces were painted black after installation
i think it might be hard to do because maybe 1965 - 1968 and Porsche verses Karmann may have variance.
Just to try to make a stab at it...
the front strut hardware in the trunk area were painted black.
the rear motor mounts and large washers were painted black
the front hood bolts were painted black
the rear engine lid bolts were painted black.
the fender bolts under trunk lid were painted black

Air vent installed and fully operational...........

Attachment 583529

the glove box needed repair.
i filled in a few holes then sanded the inside with 220 grit.
painted the inside with dark grey rust-oleum.
then flocked it with dark grey flock.
i will let it dry overnight and then blow off the excess.

Attachment 584220

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Wipper unit .... cleaned up nicely ....Attachment 584249

Looks great. Did you paint or plate the linkage?

the linkage was plated.
I bought the parts minus the motor a few years ago as i remember on this site.
turned out that the bracket that was powder painted beautifully had the wrong bolt pattern for the motor, the 3 bolt holes for some reason were clocked back about an hour and the supporting small tab was also askew.
I refinished my original motor bracket and was able to remove the entire linkage and place it into my part. It was tricky but worked.

Very nice job. That part looks brand new.

pulled the plate off and dug the waxy grease out .... regreased it
So, after 40 plus years sitting in a field, it ran like a sewing machine.

My gauges for my 1968 911L Targa.
John Bell sympathetic restoration.
SPECIAL NOTE: Font is Ivory. not green not white. early cars have 3 different font colors.........
Tachometer upgrade card installed..........


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finishing up the glove box...
leather dye worked well on the pressed paper material...


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Nice Bob, isn’t flock a cool product. Fairly easy to use and it fairly cheap.

Yes Rick ... it was a required project in high school wood shop....
Here is the lid liner .
redyed and new elastic straps.
I made the strap 240mm long and overlapped 40mm and sew the overlap.
So it goes on like a band and then super glued to the back side.

Attachment 584884

Realy cool fiber/bakalight steering cover.
sanded with 400# and buffed with compound.Attachment 585299

Decision Time.
I have "Old Red" with red leather
I have "Burgandy" with Burgendy leather....
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Burgundy looks to be a beautiful choice!

My car was imported by my brother-in-law in 1978.
It turned out that the car was taken apart and repainted several times and was raced and fitted with rear flairs and a front air dam.
The kardex said red interior but there was not a trace of red interior instead all black
Except for one thing...
This red "sock"..
I am wondering if all the red interior cars had this red "sock"Attachment 585466

Or perhaps, more specifically, is the "sock" color coordinated with the interior color?
The dealers could change out features on a car to make a sale. In the 356 days they would change engines on request to make a deal. I believe that ended once the engine code was embedded in the VIN for 1968, but there are always exceptions for Porsche's.

so far i have heard from a few people and their red interior cars did not have this.
could this be another "only1968 LUX" thing?
or just a fluke?

dont want to make an ash of my self....
sand blasted and while i could fabricate a new tray..... the chrome part is way to far gone to refinish.......Attachment 586613

A new search begins!

I guess we know now what happened to the previous owner.

this particular chrome piece is the stopper ....
the chrome guys won't refurbish piecesAttachment 586713 with this much rust

In stalling duct works.....Attachment 588205

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addressing wiring loom holders...
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Accelerator rod bushings installed.
Also, in picture restored shift coupler.........
And improved (Much wider) shift rod bushing........Attachment 588384
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installed heater box/valves.Attachment 588465
also test fit Mercedes W108 breakaway mirror plate...........
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got some goods from overseas...
these rugs are Porsche color burgundy.
They are actually a little warmer/darker than the pictures.
trunk too............
and some phony axx expansive Vinal that was supposed to be Targa top material...
i am an upholstery guy so don't ask me about the quality....... it is too embarrassingAttachment 588752.
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Attachment 588754Attachment 588755

Here is a 1969 Mercedes mirror Stem... ( Top)
And a 1968 Porsche mirror stem furnished by Jim B. (Bottom)
They are identical in every way.........Attachment 589031

Installed the gauges.
I wanted to finish building out the tunnel so i needed to install the loom.
Started at the front of the car passenger side and fished the wires up the fender support to find that it is about 12"Attachment 589422
" to short...............
So then mocked up the rest of the loom all the way back to the taillights.
Luckily that part of the loom appears to fit..........
Attachment 589423
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Installing the main loom......Attachment 589832
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Bob, check that actuating arm from the brake switch, I think its on the wrong side of the washer.

good eye ed
i took it off to plug in the wires and did not pay attention when screwing it back on
thanks
enjoy
bob

finally got my hands on some 4mm tar paper.to finish-up the sound deadening project.

Attachment 590708
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more sound deadningAttachment 590882

.....And more sound deadening.
I left the raised "perimeters" because I will place a 10mm pad on the floor and this will level out the floor

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to simulate how the 1967 was done (i have to guess that 1968 was treated the same way)
I layed down sone material then put multiple layers of rubberized undercoating on it to simulate the horsehair pad that would have been on the floor..........
Attachment 591530
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Quote:

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Originally Posted by bob joyce

to simulate how the 1967 was done (i have to guess that 1968 was treated the same way)
I layed down sone material then put multiple layers of rubberized undercoating on it to simulate the horsehair pad that would have been on the floor..........
Attachment 591530
Attachment 591531
Attachment 591532

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This thread is absolutely fantastic! There is authentic and there is this level of right. Love it.

After the undercoating partially dried (would not unravel) I used aAttachment 593180 roller to flatten the material.

removed the front suspension fixtures and bolted on the suspension carrier.
It had been on the fixtures since 2018
Now is the time to mock-up all of the parts to find what bolts i will have to replace and gather up all the pieces....Attachment 593181Attachment 593182Attachment 593183

More beautiful work!

I had the ash tray pieces chromed and clear zinc.Attachment 596334


Attachment 596336




Still looking for some Elephant Hide

Very nice work. My Golden Green has a journey ahead of it....

On the ash tray...
you can swap out other model ash tray pieces in order to build a proper 1968 ash tray.

Gathering up and harvesting parts for the brake caliper etc.
22mm hole saw to harvest the center piece from the 48mm piston.
the rear 38mm pistons had removable centerpieces.
Also shone a collection of Bell Metric hardware
Also PMB Performance stainless steel pistons
black zinc hardware and a little yellow zinc


Attachment 596427

Attachment 596428


Attachment 596429

Placing knock back mechanisms in new PMB Performance stainless steel pistons...
Continue to install pistons into caliper halves
Bolt together and torque bolts
Attachment 596477

Attachment 596478

Attachment 596479

Attachment 596480

this should be all of the nuts/bolts for the body.
i have sized and sorted and ready to cross reference with the parts book
also notate torque values.
the rear torsion bars and fulcrum plates are installed.Attachment 596758


Attachment 596759

.

Always love the details!

you can't always get what you want......
but...........
I have never got a part so impressively packaged.....
It was not supposed to have the nipple.
so now i guess i will have to metal work it away and then paint the entire exchanger to look like the original factory ones...........

Attachment 596835

Attachment 596836

Had a real mess on my hands
these "restored" a arms had the ball joint and stabilizer brackets upside down and the rubber bushings were set at near level.
I asked Chuck at Elephant about how to reset the rubber bushings and he suggested soaking in soapy water overnight.
Well.... that and squirting it with soapy water as i moved them worked out just fine...
Was able to set both rears at 15 degrees and both fronts at 19 degrees.


Attachment 596982

rear axle work completed....

Attachment 597314

Attachment 597315

Attachment 597316

ran into a jam .....
yellow arrow shows a 4mm gap, caliper to disk'
2mm would be ideal.
the other side of disk rubs on the caliper body.
I measured the disk /drum and it matches the dimensions of the original part.

the next picture shows very little gap at this point.
control arm assembled with all parts as per the drawing.
seal to seal finish positions were as original...
if this location was 2mm wider i would be home.

large castellated nut is only halfway torqued - about 90lbs as opposed to the full 215lbs...
would that pull the caliper mounting plate further forward???

Attachment 597388

Attachment 597389

Isn’t there a spacer between caliper and control arm? I have some in my box of plated stuff. It’s been a while since I worked on a SWB car. I’ll post a pic if needed.

These are SWB caliper shims that either go front or rear one some cars, just can’t remember which model. They are 3mm thick.

Actually making it tighter will make it worse pulling the hub in more. Maybe after torque it will need a 3 mm shim.

Fantastic Rick
The book does not show this spacer, but once I saw your picture i remembered that I had painted those pieces years ago...........
Would you have and be interested in selling some GRAEKA 13MM head, 8MM , 10mm long bolts
They are for the front and rear brake backing plates. I need 12.
Greatly appreciated
thank you
enjoy
bob

Attachment 597422

with original 3mm shim installed
caliper centers on disk
when placing brake pads
both sides were equal
Thanks again Rick....Attachment 597433

Sorry Bob, nothing with the correct brand

front suspension installed...
Attachment 597526

Attachment 597527

Front brakes installed except that i have the wrong bango sealing ring..........Attachment 597830

Attachment 597831

Bob - great thread!

Did you paint or coat the front hubs to protect them? They look a little brighter than just polishing.

yes... they were oxidized and once cleaned up i wanted to stop the oxidation process

From the dashboard forward the steering, suspension and brakes are installed and torqued..........


dAttachment 597997

Must be getting close to the maiden voyage!

Really coming along nicely.

hung the fender with 2 screws just so i could seeAttachment 598022

Attachment 598023

The Mouse Hole.....Attachment 598399

Attachment 598400
Attachment 598424

Time to build the dash board
Sand blasted and painted...Attachment 598891
also the Targa specific under dash suport...

Attachment 598892

The front sway bar arms should be yellow zinc , your car is deserving of the correct details .

ok Richy
looking at my upholstery options, or should i say the inability to find red elephant hide
greased the rails of a slide down an alternate path.
i can and will get back on path with the yellow zinc.
thank you Richy

mock up of dash trim
the lower piece is out of the dash kit (i Have the whole kit) .... I have to decide if I want to sand them out with 180# and take them thru the polishing sequence
none of the pieces are attached, just the pins hanging in the holes and upper pieces are from original (not to be used)
The glove box and ash tray opens and closes perfectly with very good gaps all thru-Attachment 599351out the dash

Here is the lower dash knee bump being readied for skin
And the lower Targa specific support piece being wrapped in Perlon

Attachment 599446

Attachment 599447

Targa under dash support bar covered and trimmedAttachment 599507

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bob joyce

Targa under dash support bar covered and trimmedAttachment 599507

---

Hi Bob

Was that 1 of a small list of parts on your car that weren't horribly rusted?:)

Jim

what is rust????

Targa specific under dash support installed
P.S.
The bar was not on the car
I added this pieceAttachment 599517

What Is Rust????
When i started this project it was posted on Restoration Design forum. That forum collapse and as i was posting on this forum It evolved into this thread
That said .... The early post of the beginning of the project are not here
So ... for clarity as to the project I will post a few pictures so that everyone is aware of the journey.

Attachment 599802

Attachment 599803

Attachment 599804

meanwhile............. back to the building of the dash board...Attachment 599805

Attachment 599806

OMG, Bob, you are a man of steel! I’ve been there once, and couldn’t go that deep,again.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rick Cabell

OMG, Bob, you are a man of steel! I’ve been there once, and couldn’t go that deep,again.

---

+1

Richard

Bob, that mountain of Restoration Design steel that you posted is just slightly more impressive than the one for my 69’ Targa restoration. I understand that RD steel is slightly thicker than stock (18 vs 20 gauge), which should make for a stiffer body. That gives me some comfort as the invoices $$$$ continue to roll in. ☹️

Looking forward to seeing more of your impressive work!

the real bonus of RD metal is that it is galvanized
I did the front gas tank/suspension pan on my 912 years ago and to my surprise it was rusting just a few years afterword that was about 25 years ago

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bob joyce

the real bonus of RD metal is that it is galvanized
I did the front gas tank/suspension pan on my 912 years ago and to my surprise it was rusting just a few years afterword that was about 25 years ago

---

True. Don’t want to revisit this area anytime soon or maybe ever!

Bob - any more pictures of the Targa before you started restoration? We're reading the final chapter now, but love to see chapter 1.

OK.....
I will start with just asking to look at the car as i knew it had been parked in the back yard for 40 years.
As i dug it out of the bushes i saw that it was a 1968 911L Targa.
Spent a couple of days digging it out just for the pleasure of seeing it.
Out of the blue I was asked if i wanted it.
I said the only way it could possibly be saved is if it had a donner rear torsion bar clip.
It so happened that there was a wrecked but non rusty 1968 Attachment 599924911L coupe rear clip that could come with the car

So the first part of the project was to repair the rear piece.
The process I chose was to remove all spot welds on the rear wheelhouse (both sides) and remove the rear cross member
I would turn the car upside down and had a couple of steel plates cut so that I could mount the large plate on the transmission mounting points and elevate the other end back at the rear engine mounts such that it was on the Design Datum Plane at the transmissions elevation.
I then installed 3/4" turnbuckle stations .One at the rear engine mount and one at the shock tower.
With the spot welds removed it was easy to straighten the wheelhouse associated parts.
I installed the engine mounting hardware to keep the rear dimension in place.Attachment 599925

so now that I got the wheelhouse and associated parts straightened.
I carefully prepared and installed the torsion bar and wheelhouse areas using my Datum Plane Plate for reference and measurement.


Attachment 599927

Attachment 599933

Attachment 599934

then installed the rear crossmemberAttachment 599928

Attachment 599929

Attachment 599930

Attachment 599931

Attachment 599932

removed DatumPlate and epoxy primedAttachment 599935

Attachment 599936

Cleaned up and epoxy rear seatAttachment 599937 and partial bulkhead

installed rear seat area and rear parcel trayAttachment 599938

Attachment 599939

Attachment 599940

Attachment 599945

Mocked up the rear quarter panels and engine lid to assure correctness.Attachment 599941.

Attachment 599942

Attachment 599943

Attachment 599944