The starting of the stripping process

Hi All,

I had the opportunity to acquire a nice 1972 911, a little while ago.......now i am getting some time to strip it down and start the rebuilding process. Thought i would post a few photos its going to be a slow but satisfying process, i find it good therapy to work on the car.......yes i might be a little crazy but it was the reason i bought it. to strip and rebuild it. In the end it will be a fun thing to drive. Wish me luck. As you can see there is a little bit of rust in the rear seat bowls and rear parcel shelf. The aim is to take it right back to bare shelf cut out all the rust and ensure that its fine for the next 30 years or so.Attachment 270559 the starting point

interior now out
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front guards, bumper and rear bumper now off...

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Sorry got interrupted before i could finish.......any way thought i would post this so it keeps me moving forward on the project as well as so other can help with helpful advice as i work my way through the process.

does anyone know the dimensions for a trolley frame to rest the 911 shell on ? i have a trolley just seeing if i can modify it a little to rest the shell on it in the near future. Otherwise it might be just a case of trial and error

Clayton

Fishcop on this board has built a octagon rotisserie and can be seen on his thread detailing his resto. The beauty is you can then roll the car over and work on any section easily. Equally you might just want a trolley … But I would start with Johns thread and set aside plenty of time to read it.

Good luck and congrats on starting.

Link to his "restoration saga" below:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/paint...-69-911-a.html

Hi Andy,

Thanks i have read Fishcops post a few times and its given me the inspiration to start my project. I am not so sure my skills match his so i will be preparing the shell and panels as best i can before passing them onto a selected panel shop, As i am intending to keep the car long long term i want to ensure the job is done correctly and professionally.

I am adding the pictures from above which didn't turn out.

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the process will be continued this weekend

ok so got a little bit more done today......it was my brothers' 40 b'day so work was cut a little short
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so speaking to my brother and thinking to i create a dolly or do i strip the shell down but keep it as a rolling shell so easy to float to the panel shop. I am open to thoughts on this. If I do leave it as a rolling shell i would remove then reattach the wheels, torsions bars etc and use copper grease so its easy for when the panel shop guys need to remove these as requried.

Hi Clayton

Definitely build a dolly - the chassis can stay on it whilst it is winched onto a trailer. Make sure you use as large a diameter size wheel as you can get hold of... it makes wrestling it about much easier.

Looks like you're going to have fun ;)

Hi John,

Thanks for the tips, I am sure i am going to have fun.....hopefully i can take some lessons from your project and posts. It is the start of a very interesting project, i have held off for a little while......then i thought well you only live once so diving right in. It a 72 911 so if might have the harder to remove rust protection on floor pans etc, from your experience is the the good old baby angle grinder with the wire brush and heat gun plus scraper to remove the best way ?

By the way if i recall you also started a green car ? how is that progressing.

Again open to any tips as i proceed through the process i will try and keep taking photos on the smart phone and updating as i can.

cheers

clayton

Hi Clayton

Unfortunately the stripping of body schutz is an incredibly "manual" process :( blasting doesn't get it all, and I don't think there are too many stripping tanks about that are big enough to dip a whole car. Wire wheels, powerful chemical strippers, and grist is all that works.

The green car, Grun Hilda, is in lovely original rust free nick, so no where near the work required. It will be a Group Sb race car... http://www.early911sregistry.org/for...ing-Car-For-Me

Cheers
John

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fishcop

Hi Clayton

Unfortunately the stripping of body schutz is an incredibly "manual" process :( blasting doesn't get it all, and I don't think there are too many stripping tanks about that are big enough to dip a whole car. Wire wheels, powerful chemical strippers, and grist is all that works.

The green car, Grun Hilda, is in lovely original rust free nick, so no where near the work required. It will be a Group Sb race car... http://www.early911sregistry.org/for...ing-Car-For-Me

Cheers
John

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+1 John. I still have some bursitis in my shoulder after weeks of scraping with the Bosch multi tool and the steel wire wheel! Messy, noisy and hot work. But the final result with clean metal is great. Seeing some of the rust here makes me realise how lucky I was.

Your new car should be great. What is its history?

Hi Merv,

Any hints with the chemicals or exactly what bosch multi tool you got would be great.

History on the car........i was away for work in las vegas and found it while i was there only 2 owners, last one was for the last 36 years.....it has a little bit of rust so got it for a good price........other than that its basically a running car, which i am obviously in the process of stripping and rebuilding.

I am going to build a dolley....still thinking about it as might do a kind of a mix with a rotisserie style so i can remove the rust proofing the easy way rather than on my back looking up at the floor.

John i will have to read your post again but was it hard to apply the rust protection stuff for the newly cleaned panels ? i do have an air compressor in the shed as well so just need to buy a cheap and easy spray gun to apply it.

cheers

clayton

Hi Clayton

You need to consider what process and products you want to use, and that will dictate how you use and apply them.

I used a product from the States called Picklex20. I have not found a supplier here... I'm a big fan of working clean small areas at a time properly and then hitting the fresh clean metal with epoxy primer rather than etch primer. Epoxy sticks like sh!t to a blanket, but most importantly it is waterproof and the area can literally be left for years whilst you work on other areas (you can brush or roll it on - but spraying is more effective). It will later take high-build primer in the final body work stages.

Thanks John,

I agree with you take small bites or areas at a time then sealing them, i am going to try and touch base with the panel beaters and see what they recommend, as well. Seeing as they will have to work with it after i have done the basic removal. i am happy to do the removing of the original rust protection and then pass it on to have the necessary rust then removed and new panels put in. At the moment the car will need :
1) new rear shelf
2) new rear seats right and left
3) new kick panels below the seats
4) touch up on both front guards
5) rust removed from long hood front rim
6) rust removed from rear hatch

so a few areas need attention, but this is to be expected given the original rust protection and age of the car.

If you dont mind sharing John, where did you get the product and how much do you need for a car ? I could re-read you post but thought i would be a little lazy and just ask you.

Ok so know i am getting a little ahead of myself but what are the best chemicals to use to remove the original rust protection on the underside of the floor pans. Thought i would try a little patch while the rear is in the air. Guessing it going to take awhile to get it all removed. Also from others experience what is are best tool to use,

1) paint scrapers
2) drill with steel wheel
3) baby angle grinder with steel wheel
4) bosch or similar multi tool with necessary attachments
5) heat gun
7) plenty of elbow grease
6) all the above ?

Thought i would try it while waiting for my brother to give me a hand to remove the engine and gearbox, looks like it will be a couple weeks before he can spare some time to help. He is an ex porsche mechanic which is a major help as i can also use his tools, he reckons it will only take about 2 hrs to remove gear box and engine.

I will then need to focus a bit more on the dolley or rotisserie which will gives me best access to the floor pans etc.

Just a thought has anyone heard of a dry ice blaster in Australia as apparently it works very well to remove the rust protection on the floor pans.

Had a chance to get a bit more done, the progress is easy at the moment i am sure once the removing of the major parts is done then the hard work will start.
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Hi All,

I am about to pull out the front and rear glass, for those who have done this before any tips on the best way to do this ?

cheers
clayton

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shipard

Hi All,

I am about to pull out the front and rear glass, for those who have done this before any tips on the best way to do this ?

cheers
clayton

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Cut the seals completely away from the glass (don't try and save them).

Hi Clayton,
Nice work. Don't take this the wrong way, but aside from the issues you have identified there will be many more along the way. For me at the moment if I go a day and don't find a new section that needs repair I'm happy. Attachment 272113Attachment 272114Attachment 272115

Hi Chris,

Good to see your project is coming along, and i hope not to many more problems come your way.
I am committed to the restore, so at the moment i am stripping the car back to a totally bare shell, covered with a rust protection like Picklex 20. Then see exactly what the damage is before getting the rust cut out professionally and the car resprayed.

My journey maybe a long one but it a journey worth taking in my opinion.

cheers
clayton

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by shipard

Ok so know i am getting a little ahead of myself but what are the best chemicals to use to remove the original rust protection on the underside of the floor pans. Thought i would try a little patch while the rear is in the air. Guessing it going to take awhile to get it all removed. Also from others experience what is are best tool to use,

1) paint scrapers
2) drill with steel wheel
3) baby angle grinder with steel wheel
4) bosch or similar multi tool with necessary attachments
5) heat gun
7) plenty of elbow grease
6) all the above ?

Thought i would try it while waiting for my brother to give me a hand to remove the engine and gearbox, looks like it will be a couple weeks before he can spare some time to help. He is an ex porsche mechanic which is a major help as i can also use his tools, he reckons it will only take about 2 hrs to remove gear box and engine.

I will then need to focus a bit more on the dolley or rotisserie which will gives me best access to the floor pans etc.

Just a thought has anyone heard of a dry ice blaster in Australia as apparently it works very well to remove the rust protection on the floor pans.

---

Your on it with the Dry Ice. You can get bulk Dry Ice (crushed) and put some in a strong garbage bag. You then place the "bag" onto the area you want to strip, leave it for a few minutes then scrape away. This has worked for me on newer cars very well. Keep your Dry Ice in a good esky and re-stock the bag as required. Last time I did a Porsche engine bay I used a good quality paint stripper - wear rubber gloves!!!!

Had some more time to work on the car, the fixed glass is now out, front glass i just managed to push out gently seal and all. I wasn't aiming to keep the seal but it just worked that way. The rear glass i cut the seal and popped it out, managed to drop the front end as well and remove the front calipers. The dash is now out and i am working on the dials and switches etc. The front heater box is a work in progress, and i am starting to remove the head liner from the rear moving forward. I also found the numbers on the dash and a very interesting tag on the drivers pillar on the black windscreen column. the pics are attached.

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the tag i was talking about before, not sure if this was from the factory or put on by previous owner at some stage
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I also found these numbers on the fuel tank, its meant to be a 100L plastic tank I will do some searching and see if i can verify that it is 100L tank. which will be great for long trips

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hopefully this weekend i will get a hand from my brother so the engine and gearbox maybe out soon

So that's a Mustard yellow 2.4E with an oil door and a 100L tank? Sound about the perfect long-distance 911 to me....

Hi Stevie,

Its actually originally a gold 1972 911S, and yes it has the oil door, i am taking it back to gold.

cheers
clayton

Nice! Enjoy the process, it'll be a while ;)

Thanks Stevie yes it will be a bit of a journey but worthwhile i believe.

In regards to the getting the Dash recovered, are there any recommendations of who to send it too ? i am based in Sydney NSW, but i am open to hearing who does the best work, why and where they are located. Any indicative price or costing would also be helpful.

cheers
clayton

Hi Clayton i looked at this recently and after searching the threads got in contact with George at Air Motor Sports george@autoinno.com who quoted $495 for the dash and $295 for the speaker grill. His work looked great (or the guy they sub to?). In the end I went for a new dash from Lakewell.com and although not fitted yet it is beautifully made. There are a few long, long, threads on the registry which basically boil down to only one manufacturer who sells to different outlets, one of these is Lakewell based in Belgium.

Thanks Midlifecrisis

Dash Doctor in Melbourne have done two for me @ about $600

Prostitch in Sydney can also do your dash. The owner is a 911 owner and supplies all of the interior textiles (vinyls, carpets, fabrics).

Thanks Chris for the Dr Dash referral.

Thanks John for Prostitch, Funnily enough I just got off the phone with a mate who was referred to Prostitch to recover some 968 CS seats in leather. I will give them a call.

Prostitch is the upholstery part, and Classic British and German is the textile supply part of the same business... http://www.classicbritishgerman.com.au/

Thanks John,

That website looks like a great little site for future reference......once the car is stripped, rust removed and then painted the reassembling will begin. As with all projects there is a budget in mind so this may extend the time frame depending on things.

My Brother gave me a hand today........and yes the engine and gearbox are now out. I am thrilled the engine is out and quiet surprised that the engine and gearbox came out so easily.

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So i had a bit more time to work on the car today, i removed the rear engine cover, removed the rear electrics, remove the rear trailing arms, removed the head liner, and even had a quick look at the front struts. The front struts ended up having orange BOGE struts in them, so will now have to look at what to replace them with for future, but thats down the track.

I haven't remove the loom yet was looking at it and thought i would ask what is the best way to remove it. Do i just pull it all forward from the rear and out in the center of the car ? or do i disconnect as much as possible and pull it backwards and out the rear of the car ?

Below are the photos
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Just a few more,

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Had a bit more time to work on the car, pulled out the windscreen wipers and dials, and pulled out the sunroof. Also started to remove the rear torsion bars, only got the 4 bolt spring plate covers off. So was thinking whats the easiest way to remove the rear torsion bar ?



Also with rear trailing arms, what is better ? powder coating or just cleaning them up and preparing them to be painted black again ?

sorry no photos as phone went flat before i could take them.

thought i would add a few photos, these are for future reference for the wiring of the dials as i took these just before i pulled the dials out. I taped the wires together in bunches for each dial. fingers cross this works and helps me when i put them back in.

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one more

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one for inspiration

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I will take some more of the dash and what i have since done shortly

i was thinking i getting a cheap sand blasting unit.......anybody had much experience with them ? i am looking to try and polish the hubs or possibly clean up a few items, remove some rust etc before painting them mat black. Open to suggestions from others who have had experience with them.

Not sure if you mean a blasting cabinet or portable blaster?
Anyhow I have both and they are a dead set winner, I had to experiment with things to get flow rates and pressures just right.

Hi Chris,

I was thinking of a portable one at this stage, ( I am aware of the cabinets as well ) but thought the cabinets might be a little restrictive as opposed to portable blaster. I have room so left over sand isnt a problem.

Was thinking something like the two below would work well. Chris are these similar to yours ?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Portable-...item416b174f3a

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Portable-...item19e5b6330a


actually looked a bit further and thought this cabinet would fit most parts and well priced

http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/S289

I have a pressure blaster and a small glass bead cabinet. I just bought one of these... http://www.stanblast.com/

How much Fishcop ?

Whats the actual blasting unit you use ??

Thanks for the link John, what size compressor did you use with this unit. Sorry the website doesn't really highlight the litre per minute free flow delivery.

Also did you go the powder coating route or just matt black for you parts like rear trailing arms etc.

Okay, here comes "Home Blasting 101"...

The $160 odd pressure blasters are by far the best for ripping into rust and corrosion - I use garnet. But they are super messy and blow the media over everything. It's fine if you have a big yard or an area you can sweep up later, but no good for a confined space. I run mine using a 15cfm twin piston compressor at about 90psi. Blasters use air up super fast, expect only bursts of about 10 seconds at full pressure. Constantly running the compressor to keep up will burn it out if you don't "rest" or duty cycle the compressor. This is the generic Chinese made unit I use https://www.tradetools.com/products/XHSB10

The small cabinet blaster has glass in it and it perfect for cleaning small alloy parts - it is a "detail blaster". It's great because it can be used in the garage with minimal dust as I have it rigged up to an air extractor (old vacuum cleaner ;) )

I hope to rig up the Stanblast unit to work with my pressure pot blaster. Hopefully it will allow 'cabinet conditions' with high power garnet blasting and recovery of media for re-use. Shane Tan in Sydney sells the units - he is 'Shanet' on Typ901.org and recently advertised that he had a few seconds available for $200. But most people were too busy poo-pooing how cheap Shane sold me an early guard to pick up on the cabinets in his ad ;) http://typ901.org/showthread.php?t=4580

Clayton I powder coated the front A arms and painted the rear trailing arms in 2k epoxy. Powder coating was part of a batch I was getting done. The rear trailing arms got restored later and by this time I'd become handy with my spray guns, 2k polyurethanes and epoxy, and matting pastes... No real rhyme or reason.

Thanks John, as always you're very generous with your wisdom and experience, I really appreciate it.

No problem Clayton. I'm just pleased that others are getting in there and having a go.

Hey John,

One quick question for you, with the electrical cords that run down through the tunnel of the car and out the rear, did you pull them towards the front ? and did you have to remove the plugs etc to get the cords through the tunnel ? I will post some pictures shortly. Basically I only have this electrical to remove, and then remove the glass from the doors and i have a shell to clean up.

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cheers
clayton

so some photos of my progress, as i said in my previous post i only basically have the electrical to remove, the bunch of wires going to the rear is then main issue holding up the electrical. Then i have the glass in the doors to remove then the fun starts. below are some up dated photos.

rear torsionbars out

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oil tank and lines removed

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all but the electrical removed from the interior

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Another question......sorry for my ignorance on this how do I identify what rear torsion bars i have ?

i had a quick look and only notice the numbers P8 R and P8 L, guess thats right and left. Sorry no photos at the moment but that is next on my list to get so it helps others in the identification process. I am guessing they will need replacing as will the rear sway bar mounts.

Those portable blasters are the go, however I found the supplied gun(read ball valve) wore through after 15 mins of work so I replaced with this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Soda-Abra...206b4d1&_uhb=1
Which does come on some models if you shop around.
I have a 3 cylinder 16cfm compressor and found a sweet spot for blasting with garnet at around 60 psi(less mess and better all round) I am a bit weird in that I sweep up as much of the waste garnet as I can seive it and reuse it.
Just measure the O.D. of the torsion bars = size. Decide if you need to replace when you work out your suspension package.
I guess now is a good time to do sway mounts but its not a must do.IMO

Thanks Chris for the helpful tips on the sand blasting unit and gun, as well as the torsion bars, I will measure them soon

Once i have the bare shell i will know more detail about what needs to be replaced, i am guessing the sway bar mounts need replacing at the moment. And if i have it down to a bare shell its probably the right time and easiest time to do it.

I managed to get all but the steering column and ignition switch out of the car, I ran out of time and also wanted to research it a bit more. Seems they have screws which are one time use only, so i will need to drill them out or use a cold chisel to remove them.

below is a few updated photos of my progress

at last all the electric cables are out of the back of the car,

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a picture of the rear springs plates and torsion bars

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I removed all the glass and components from the doors

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the only bit left to do is the ignition and steering column with those use once screws

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for the time being i have left the doors in place, so the shell is almost ready for the next phase

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Ok been doing some research around the sand blasting, dry ice etc.....so a quick question has anyone ever used crushed glass as a blasting medium ? guess you could use the same blasting equipment as sand. Does anyone have any thoughts or happy to add some input to my question or thoughts ?

http://www.bicarb.com.au/ have a quick read under the blasting tab second page, pasted their words below. I have no connection with this business just doing some research to see whats out there

Crushed glass - Our media of choice. Available in a range of grit sizes, crushed glass is ideal for automotive blasting. The particles are relatively light weight compared to all other abrasive blast medias. It is also only slightly harder than panel steel on the MOHs scale of hardness (6.5 vs 6). Combind these 2 key properties and you have a blast media that does not harden panel steel like garnet, the fine particle size leaves a very mild profile and ultimately dramatically reduces the risk of panel distortion when compared to all other abrasive medias. The glass has quite sharp edges and can quickly remove rubbery coatings and underbody sealers.
The glass leaves no residue on the panels. This of course is our preferred blast media for almost all the blasting we do.

We started calling this "fine abrasive blasting" when we first started back in 2007 and it seams to have grown into a common term across the country. However we don't agree with businesses using that term when they use garnet or other heavy abrasives, even if they are using the finer grades. To us fine abrasive refers to both the particle size and the physical weight of the blast media.

Also Crushed glass is only blasted at 100psi (not 400-600 psi as we've seen claimed)

cheers

clayton

ok, so I've done a little research on the crushed glass as a blasting medium, and while it is a great product i think i am going to go with my original thought and go with the dry ice blasting medium.

I have used professional soda blast and sand blast, now days because it is available not far from me this type of paint removal is what I prefer. http://www.minuspaint.com.au/
Car comes back to me in bare steel (with a soluble rust preventer) looking like the picture chris7 put up in your other thread, and all the cavities are cleaned and flushed also.

Hi Chris,

Thanks for web link, I have decided to go down the Dry Ice Blasting path, but I will be having some time off the project over Xmas and the new year. I might do some minor projects over the break like rebuilding the steering rack, stripping and rebuilding the foot pedal box etc..Just so it keeps progressing along.

Merry Xmas and Happy New Year to everyone

Clayton

Looks like the 85 litre plastic tank to me but a bit hard to tell as I can't see the top as you have it lent up against the wall in the pic it is in

Gold is such an awesome colour I will follow your progress with great interest

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shipard

I also found these numbers on the fuel tank, its meant to be a 100L plastic tank I will do some searching and see if i can verify that it is 100L tank. which will be great for long trips

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hopefully this weekend i will get a hand from my brother so the engine and gearbox maybe out soon

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Hi Clyde,

Yes i worked out it was a 85 litre plastic tank, seems if i get stumped i often go to the main forum and post a few questions. It is probably due to the main forum having alot more viewing than our regional Australian forum. Glad you agree about the colour, i think gold is an awesome colour too, and it is the original colour so that what i am taking it back to. I am aiming to keep the car moving along through the restoration even if its slowly at times, and by all means feel free to add your two cents worth as my project progresses along. I do have a vision for the restoration and the finally completed car, but i am always open to others experience as i work through it.

How are your ongoing projects/cars coming along ?

cheers
clayton

I was chatting to a fellow early911S registry member and he managed to get a listing of the options that came with my car.

A massive thanks to San, I really appreciate the help from a fellow member. For now this will do until i get my COA.

Heres the option info for my car.



VIN 911 230 1384
engine 632XXXX
gearbox not listed
color 8888=goldmetallic
interior 13=leatherette black/Pepita
dealer 114=Glöckler,Frankfurt
invoice June'72
options 258=headrest left/right
409=sportseat left/right
426=chrome trims on wheel housings
427=rear embellisher
432=additional highbeam lamps over bumper
499=fuel tank 85l
568=colored windows
650=sliding roof

Clayton, no problem at all.

Clayton

Wow highly speced car

So does 432 mean Cibies wired into headlight circuit?

Thanks Clyde

The car is missing the 432 option components but i believe the picture below shows the high beam lights, which were meant to be on it. And i think you are correct.

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it was also missing the 427 option components which is the rear muffler skirt as per the picture below.

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So thats just a couple more parts to source and find to complete my restoration. :)

No thats not what I thought they were.

Those are Hella 118 fog lights although you could get those in driving lights as well.

I owned a tourist delivery car that had the bigger cibbies wired into the headlight circuit and they only came on as high beam lights
as the list says high beam lights over bumper that doesn't mean fog ligts to me. I am not familar with all the codes though and it could be the description is wrong.

Hi Clyde,

I am only guessing these are the driving lights.......described by the code i found the above picture i thought was the lights. The codes are from a a thread on this registry for 1969 - 1973 911s'

http://www.early911sregistry.org/for...t=option+codes

M 432 : Quartz-iodine long range lamps, white. Above bumper. (Through-the-grille driving lights)

Do you have any pictures of the lights you are describing ? As i too am not totally familiar with the codes either.

Thanks Hugh.......(i have pasted the below which was a reply to another post)

here you go Clayton

they are LIKE the fogs you have shown but are long range driving light lenses instead of the fluted fog lends to give a wide flat light spread

( from the 71 - 73 options booklet)
PS they are around but much rareer than the fogs
Attachment 277970

Hugh Hodges
73 911E
Melbourne Australia

Foundation Member #005
Australian TYP901 Register Inc.
Early S Registry #776

Yes I and another Melbourne owner both acquired a set each last week at great expense to the management.

Hella 118 driving lights to be more precise. They are quite rare as Hugh says but as we have just shown also available from time to time.

by the way are you sure that the 85l tank was option 499?? I have an 85L tank (came standard in my car) but the options book shows the code as 424 - see below. That does not mean that the number changes but the book is suppoeed to cover 911T E S and 914 from 71 to 73

I added in pics of a couple more of your options just for completeness

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Hugh Hodges
73 911E
Melbourne Australia

Foundation Member #005
Australian TYP901 Register Inc.
Early S Registry #776

and the rest ......

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Hugh Hodges
73 911E
Melbourne Australia

Foundation Member #005
Australian TYP901 Register Inc.
Early S Registry #776

A Huge Thanks to Hugh for getting me actual pictures of the Options my car came with.

Thanks Mate......if your ever in Sydney let me know and I'll buy you a beer :)

Hi Clyde,

Good to see they are still available, and glad you got a set for yourself........hopefully my search will also turn up a set of the driving lights.

I will have a bit of time up my sleeve before i finish this restoration project so "good things come to those who wait" wish me luck in finding a set for myself.

Great thread - I appreciate your letting the project out to the vast audience here :) Subscribing now and for the future!!

cheers

Hey Mike,

Glad to hear from you........feel free to join me on my little project, it may take awhile but i think it will be worth it.

cheers

clayton

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Clayton
You have a great project ahead of you. I thought that I would give you something to post on the wall to give you encouragement.
9112300518 made January 1972

Hi Bill,

Thanks for dropping by and for the photo........your car looks like a sweet little ride, feel free to add a couple of shots from the rear of the car as well !

I noticed its gold, mine is/will be metallic gold so it is almost the same so its definitely a good photo to add to the wall for encouragement.

Did you restore any of this car yourself or did you buy it as is ?

One other question i notice your front lights and horns/grills are silver/chrome edged did this come standard on your car ? as i have seen them black as well, mine are black so i was just trying to work it out did the 72 come black as i thought they did as well as the 73

Clayton
I have owned my S since 4/1979. It was repainted in about 1976 because the Porsche clear coat was going bad. The present gold is on the yellow side. I am currently rebuilding the engine. The horn grills and turn signal light covers should be chrome or silver. Porsche went to black in 1973.
I looked at all of my digital pictures of the car and only came up with one picture of the rear. It also has my wife talking on the cell phone and to the right a well known yellow Porsche (YB). We were headed to a Porsche meet in Ventura California (7 hrs away) and stopped at a gas station.

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Hi Bill,

What a great shot of two great looking 911s', looks like you've had the chance to have a lucky long term ownership and enjoyment of your 911.

Thanks also for getting back to me about the silver/chrome edging. You mention that you are rebuilding the engine, was it just getting old and a little tired or was there another reason you decided to do this ? Also what exactly are you doing in the rebuild ? and if you don't mind me asking what parts are you replacing and why have you decided to do so ?

again thanks for the inspirational shots.

cheers
clayton

Clayton
My engine had 108,000 miles on it and it would smoke on deceleration. When they disassembled it, they found that the valve were starting to rub on the cylinder walls. The valve guides we're worn out. I am doing a complete rebuild and upgrade. It will look as close to original as possible and be good for at least 100,000 miles. I believe that it will add value to the car.
The yellow car with my car is the RUF Yellow Bird, it was a great chance meeting.

Bill,

Lucky chance meeting with the Yellow Bird, i have watched the video on that one many times.

You mentioned upgrading your engine, what are you planning to upgrade ? Good luck with the rebuild i am sure you'll have it back on the road and running better than ever shortly.

Clayton
The case halts were machined at the connecting surface to make sure that they were flat and then they were line bored. The cylinder bolt holes had timecerts put in to strengthen them. The distributor was changed to electronic points. The engine is still a 2.4. It is ready to be put back in the car now. I am going to have them rebuild the suspension before the engine goes back in.

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Bill,

Great pics and thanks for update.......progress on my project is slow at the moment but its good to see others enjoying their car. And good to see what mine will look like in the future when its complete. I hope you get yours back on the road shortly, any tweaks to the suspension rebuild or keeping it standard ?

Clayton
I am not doing any changes other than replace the rubber bushings with rubber. I am trying to keep it as original as possible because that is where I think that the best sales value is. Besides, I prefer original cars. I have a very nice unrestored 1931 Model A Ford Victoria with original paint and interior. Keeping a car original means more detail work and money.
Keep picking away at your project and before you know it, you will be driving it again.
Here is what the bottom of my car looks like, at the moment. When you get done, I hope yours will look cleaner

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Thanks Bill,

I am slowly chipping away at the 911......i know it will get there in the end, awaiting a few more things to arrive before continuing the process.

cheers
clayton

Needed to remove the red paint from my paint tag code with out wrecking the tag.....

The Acetone trick worked.........see the pics below

This was how it started out you can see the door tag painted red
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I then got a hint from a mate to use acetone......
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so i poured a little onto a patch like this then waited about 15mins
Attachment 279347

and the end result........now very happy with the outcome, just needs a little bit of a tidy up
Attachment 279348

cheers
clayton

By the way does anyone have a recommendation for power coaters in sydney ?

It must be the vitamin E:)
Easy enough to grind the heads off of those blind rivets to get the tag off and safely out of the way while you get the car done.

Hi Chris,

Yeah wasn't sure it would work but glad it did.......yes next step is to very carefully remove the rivets and remove the tag. I will be removing the other vin tag as well. Going to be very careful with it. I will put it in the draw with the dials.....and put it back on once the car has been done. Awaiting on a few things so progress has slowed on the project.......slowly slowly.

I also did some work on the front suspension........it is slowly coming apart, cross member is free and now to loosen the nuts on the bottom of the struts. Have sprayed with WD40 and letting it soak in. Its one of the last things i do before finishing up work, seems to help (well i hope it does) so anything that needs to come apart has a day or so before i try it again. I dont have the socket to undo these nuts but hoping multi grips might do the trick. Open to suggestions....

My aim is to get the front and rear suspension all powder coated, as it relatively cheap and keeps the progress heading along.

Some slow progress........i am pulling the front suspension apart, and having a bit of an issue with the pin that holds the front ball joint to the suspension strut. I finally got one apart after a fair amount of banging and WD40. the other one is being a bit more stubborn. Anyone else had troubles with this ? and if so what was their fix ? i am trying to avoid drilling it out so let it soaking again with some more WD40 for a couple of days.

A special day today.......i finally removed the vin tag, it now sits in the drawer with the dials.
step 1
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step 2
Attachment 280437

step 3
Attachment 280438

Now i only have one bolt to remove from the steering column and the last oil line from the oil filter and the shell will be ready to be cleaned and paint removed. I am waiting on a air compressor and a couple of other things...progress is getting there slowly but surely, as I read somewhere these things are marathons not sprints.

I am breaking it down into little jobs as well, so ordering a few parts to do some small jobs. Job 1 is to redo the brass bushes in the pedal box. With this in mind do people powder coat the pedals and pedal box or just paint with a semi gloss black paint ?

Below are some before shots.......after shots to follow in due course

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Clayton, learn how to use 2k paint... I powdercoated the big things like suspension components etc..., but you'll move forward a lot faster if you can make yourself up a paint booth (old cardboard wardrobe for example) and learn to mix two-component epoxy and polyurethane paints. The finish is superior to anything out of a can, and will literally last a lifetime if looked after. Satin black is merely gloss black with some matting agent mixed in so you can adjust it as you need...

Ok thanks John, thats another reason to add to the list, hence i am getting/waiting on a compressor......so will start learning the 2k painting as well.

I am now starting to understand its the journey not necessarily the destination.......saying

soaking the second ball joint pin must have done the trick as 4 bangs this morning and it popped out.........not to seperate the ball joints and working on the tie rod joints as well.........guessing this is what older cars are like........lots of sweat but good satisfaction when there is progress

Clayton - great work
I am sure you're aware - but LHD and RHD pedal clusters are different ?
cheers Paul

Hey Paul,

Yeah I have a left hooker so everythings' different Hahahaha

…. good …. i was just checking (!!!)

Great work indeed - i'm really enjoying the progress !!

I was away the whole week for work, so progress has been slow.

That said i finally managed to remove the oil filter assembly
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Attachment 281261

And also managed to remove the last one time use bolt on the steering column so now the steering column is out

Attachment 281265

so only have the three minor switches to remove then the shell is totally stripped...:D:D

so i have a question as there is one wire i am trying to confirm if its for the sunroof......can anyone confirm it for me from the photos ?

Attachment 281266

Attachment 281267

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It is also stuck from the bottom going down the a pillar so not sure what is it....will have to investigate it a bit further

I think that wiring is for the interior lights above the B-pillar.

sorry just noticed i said A-pillar........guess i am just to use to right hand drive cars..Oops :confused: ( pgxif i bet you saw that one coming )

so you are correct it is the B-pillar...:D

So was chatting to a mate of mine...........a little to late as he just sold his rotisserie but was happy to lend it to me if i had asked. Up side is he has a spare compressor and sand blasting cabinet..........happy to lend it to me for as long as i need it. Go Patto you are the man ( another car nut but more into cobras, mustangs and Ford F40 ) all great cars so we won't hold that against him

News on the restauration?

nothing new?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lordsman

Just a thought has anyone heard of a dry ice blaster in Australia as apparently it works very well to remove the rust protection on the floor pans.

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You would have to turn it up so high to remove the cosmoline that you might lose everything

Where do you live in Aus as I know a great one in Melbourne