Benefit is improved handling and IMO significantly better steering feel (more direct feedback). Did this on my former '73.5T which was a driver not a concours perfect restoration, thoroughly worthwhile.
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Benefit is improved handling and IMO significantly better steering feel (more direct feedback). Did this on my former '73.5T which was a driver not a concours perfect restoration, thoroughly worthwhile.
Is it easier to do a tie rod job on or off the car?
Chris
Removing the Silentbloc bushes with the rack on the car in a real PITA.
Chris, would you mind posting the part numbers for the Rover/Civic, Hyundai, & Ford parts that make up your SWB solution?
andy
Thanks guys.
Chris
On removing the end at the rack, use care not to torque against the rack assembly, be sure you are holding the rack shaft's while trying to break loose the old connection. use a wrench to hold the flats (can make a special wrench (long for leverage) from bar stock or angle iron to hold this as well) while breaking the eye connection loose, torqueing against the assembly will break the delrin puck inside the unit, the sliding block setting free play and letting rack slide. (inside round area in pic of the rack assembly).
Regards
Track Rod End
ROVER QJB100120
HONDA 53540SK3E01
LEMFÖRDER 19740 04
FEBI BILSTEIN 12944
TRW JTE305
FIRST LINE FTR4465
We normally use the standard Lemoerder Turbo Tie Rod and I will have to dig out the Hyundai Part number as I filed it away.
If you use this TRE then you don't need the Hyundai part.
Figured I would bump a semi-recent thread rather than creating a new one geared at obtaining an answer to the above question.
Is there any reason to go with Elephant turbo tie rods vs. Lemfoerder? I am also considering a bump steer kit (Elephant or Weltmeister), if this is a consideration. Thanks in advance!
SWB or LWB?? The Elephant Kit designed for the SWB is a bonus for more thread engagement into stock components, The Turbo Tie Rod was designed by Porsche for LWB cars well after SWB production ended.
Regards