I removed these two torsion bars from my current project...As you can see, some rust on both, one worse than the other. Replacement needed?
Attachment 585731
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I removed these two torsion bars from my current project...As you can see, some rust on both, one worse than the other. Replacement needed?
Attachment 585731
Doesn’t look too bad to me. The key on these is not just rust removal but smoothing those areas out really well. Stress risers are where cracks typically develop as the bar twists.
Are those stock front 19mm? I don't know what your project is but I'd go new 20mm. Torsion bars aren't expensive but they are responsible for so much of the suspension.
yes, stock from a 1973S. I am trying to keep the car as original as possible - but would you still go 20?
I'd need a lot more information from you about the car to answer that question but yes all day I'd go 20 if it will actually be driving down some back country roads.
If you’ve ever had a torsion bar (sway away)break at 100mph and then get T-boned by another car you wouldn’t think twice about it. I like Sanders hollow bars.
When the front A arm bushing sag, the torsion bars will rub against rear part of the A arm tube. In Oregon they will squeak when dry and quiet when it rains. The paint wears off just forward of the splines.
I think that is what happened to mineQuote:
Originally Posted by gled49
Not sure if this is helpful, but years ago when servicing Porsches I was constantly reminded not to scratch torsion bars and to not install ones that have scratches. The concern was failure at the locations where the scratches were.