-
1 Attachment(s)
Door Seals
Bought some new reproductions of the original style seals a couple of years ago and finally got around to installing them.
Not a hard job but they are like handling an octopus. Soon as you think you have them set and ready to measure for cutting they fall out of place. Start over.
What is needed:
Update: 9.18.12 The factory didn't likely make a mitre cut based on observations. I'll call this "dealers choice". It's pretty but it's not the way it was done.
Cheap plastic mitre box or a good eye for a 45º cut. "Eye Ball" not good so cheap box stood in.
A long razor blade or very sharp knife for the mitre cut.
3M Black Weatherstrip adhesive.
Door Panel tools (use of the blade ends is pretty handy in setting the B Pillar section of the seal; photo attached 2 tools starting 2nd from left)
Super Glue to bond the ends at the 45º cut.
Patience is a virtue. Take your time. It's a boring job but you really want to measure a couple of times before cutting.
I didn't shoot photos of the operation because… well, I just didn't find it all that exciting.
I did one side yesterday and then rode 4 motorcycles. That's not a necessary step but it was fun.
Finished the other side today after making my 45º cut on the passenger side seal last night and letting it set up overnight.
Buttoned it up this afternoon and went for a ride in the old SL.
Looks like it should and the doors do shut a bit easier now that the "tubes" are gone.
Tom
-
Hi Tom,
Thanks for the write up. Any reduction in wind noise with this style door seals?
Bert
-
It's pretty quiet in the garage. ;)
There wasn't an opportunity to test it yesterday. I'll report back as soon as possible.
Tom
-
Thanks for the write up.
Can you post a picture of the seal? I'm curious what the profile looks like as there have been a few iterations of these.
-
2 Attachment(s)
Full and Cross Section. The rubber is quite dense and nearly as hard to handle as a black snake! It won't stay where you want it unless the area is tight (like the threshold and B Pillar).
This is where the tools come in handy because there is a groove in the rubber that needs to be slipped under the threshold and B-Pillar channels.
I glued it a short section at a time and once satisfied everything was where it needed to be shut the door and walked away.
Tom
-
-
3 Attachment(s)
Channel areas.
The door sill is the easiest to slip in. The B-Pillar is not. You really need the tools. No screwdrivers! Once you have it close you can lubricate the blade, insert it behind the rubber and make a "pull" downward which will
settle the piece where it needs to be for best contact with the U shaped seal.
Start at the top of the B-Pillar corner where you've made your 45º cut (and glued seam). Once this is in, work down the B-Pillar are in front of the rear window. This will establish a good foothold and allow you to work without the thing
dropping out. I still recommend doing short sections at a time. The glue gives you plenty of time to work the seal into place. There is NO RUSH. Relax and take your time. It took me 2 days!!! Not because it was difficult but because
there isn't any reason to rip and run. This is a great job for the ADD folk who lose interest and have to find something else to entertain them in between rounds!:rolleyes:
Tom
-
I am about ready to do this on a 66 Coupe. Where (which corner) should the 45 cut end up
-
1 Attachment(s)
The cut is in the corner of the top rear of the door seen in the photo. The sequence in the photo is how I did it but there is no rhyme or reason other than I found it better to have worked the over-head section as I was going to the front so I could keep an eye on it.
I've also marked the areas where the seal may put up a fight. (In the end they always give up!)
Section 1 is without a doubt as hard as it gets. Especially the corner where the 45º's are cut. You really need the trim/door tools to get that in properly. NO SCREWDRIVERS unless they are made out of butter.
Tom
-
Very Nice Tom; Can I ask who's repro seal you went with?